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    • June 29, 2020 4:39 AM EDT
    • http://www.rhoshelyg.me.uk/

       

    • June 28, 2020 11:13 AM EDT
    • If I remember right, many Accucraft models from the earlier designs like the Ruby tend to way over oil themselves.  Leading to way to much oily goo out of the exhaust, which then is burnt in the smokebox with pops and blue smoke.  My friends early 3 cylinder Shay is bad for it.   The Dora is also a bad one to do it.  I know Jim Sanders(Wee Bee Loco Works) came up with a fix for the Dora and I think he got my other friends Ruby #2 to stop doing so much popping when he reset the timing on it.   Not sure what his mod was on the Ruby but you might message Mr Sanders or Jason Kovac at The Train Dept and see if they have some ideas you or they can do for you.     Mike

    • June 28, 2020 10:21 AM EDT
    • Joe Zullo said:

      Your links in your signature do not work!

      So they don't, but only because LSC seems to want to corrupt them for some strange reason. Copy and paste works or you can use this link which does work: www.rhoshelyg.me.uk

    • June 28, 2020 8:43 AM EDT
    • Rhos Helyg Loco Works said:
      Joe Zullo said:

      I suck out the gunge from the oiler after each run and refill it with fresh steam oil.

       

      The "gunge" is, of course, emulsified steam oil and is EXACTLY what the loco needs and uses for lubrication. As steam passes through the lubricator it emulsifies the steam oil, turning it in to "gunge", which then passes with the steam through to the valves and cylinders. Steam oil in non-emulsified form rarely gets to the cylinders and, given time, "gunge" will separate out in to its components: clear oil and water. Mess and money can be saved by giving it a good leaving alone and only sucking out the water.

      Your links in your signature do not work!

    • June 26, 2020 6:32 AM EDT
    • Joe Zullo said:

      I suck out the gunge from the oiler after each run and refill it with fresh steam oil.

       

      The "gunge" is, of course, emulsified steam oil and is EXACTLY what the loco needs and uses for lubrication. As steam passes through the lubricator it emulsifies the steam oil, turning it in to "gunge", which then passes with the steam through to the valves and cylinders. Steam oil in non-emulsified form rarely gets to the cylinders and, given time, "gunge" will separate out in to its components: clear oil and water. Mess and money can be saved by giving it a good leaving alone and only sucking out the water.

    • May 12, 2020 8:55 AM EDT
    • Sounds good Joe.  That would be a problem!  I'm no expert, but on most gas appliances you adjust the "shutter" so the flame burns blue with little or no orange on the tips. Too much or too little air in the mix will cause problems. Also getting the shutter adjusted properly can reduce to burner howl too.

    • May 11, 2020 9:34 PM EDT
    • Yesterday:

      After many hours of reading on this site  this newbie to live steam finally figured it out!
      I was sucking in too much air at the nozzle because in my newbie brain I thought I needed more air, so I completely removed the brass ring around the nozzle holder that regulates how much air the burner gets. This had the effect of raising the BTU's produced by the burner to the point that the stack could not exhaust the CO2 fast enough and the CO2 would build up and snuff out the fire. This is why it stayed lit with the smoke box door open as several of you smarter than me mentioned. Today the light in my brain stopped blinking and came on full bright. I said to myself "Self, put that air regulator ring back on". Three steam ups on rollers and it ran great and stayed lit with the smoke box door closed.
      Tomorrow I will run it on the railroad, but I think with the help of all of you it will be OK. Thank you all!

      Today:

      Ran my Ruby on my railroad today and I am quite pleased. Two steam ups and the fire never snuffed out. Also a lot less popping!
      I am closing the books on this problem. Thank you all!

    • May 21, 2020 5:59 PM EDT
    • Got a chance to video my latest run. It is settling in nicely, though still not using any oil! I've got the lubricator screw out 3 1/2 turns, so there'd better be some water in there next time.

       

    • May 16, 2020 2:48 PM EDT
    • Add the kindling! 

      Or are you a fusee man?

    • May 16, 2020 1:42 PM EDT
    • Today's little project was to get the twigs off the desk and clear the deck!  These came from a pile outside the Fort Myers YMCA. I think they look like oak, or similar hardwood.

       

       

      Here's the log splitter I used:

       

    • May 14, 2020 7:36 PM EDT
    • That had to be a satisfying moment, Pete!  Congratulations!

    • May 11, 2020 9:40 AM EDT
    • Running in at the Calusa Creek RR in Fort Myers, FL.

       

    • May 12, 2020 3:57 PM EDT
    • Thank you all.

       

      Pete, that set looks awesome and I'd consider that except I already have most of those tools. I'm missing nut drivers (or sockets) except a 3mm to where my full size set starts, I believe at  5mm.

       

      The 7 piece Wiha nut driver set Don mentioned is the one I had in my Amazon shopping cart when I decided to ask first

    • May 12, 2020 2:12 PM EDT
    • Jon, I second the call for a Wiha metric tool set, and I heartily recommend this ratchet set for working on Accucraft or Aster locos:

      Wiha 75965 Master Tech 65 Piece Set - ESD Handle, Mini Ratchet and MicroBits In Metal Storage Box

      https://www.toolnut.com/wiha-75965-master-tech-65-piece-set-esd-handle-mini-ratchet-and-microbits-in-metal-storage-box.html

       

      Not only does it include the metric nut drivers, but there are a few imperial sizes. Philips and flat screwdrivers, etc. A handle to make it easy to use it as a screw driver, and the ratchet for the stubborn stuff. I reckon that buying the Wiha metric nutdriver sets with the same capability would cost you $250 at least. I got mine from Micromark, but the Toolnut guys want $89.91.

       

      And, get this. I thought I lost the most often used nut driver bit [figures as that one comes out all the time.] You can buy replacement tool bits from Wiha quite cheaply.

      https://www.wihatools.com/bits/micro-bits/bits

       

      Bits:
      Slotted: .8, 1.2, 1.5, 1.8, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0mm
      Phillips: #000, #00, #0, #1
      Hex Metric: .7, .9, 1.35, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 4.0mm
      Hex Inch: .050, 1/16, 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32
      Torx: T3, T4, T5, T6, T7, T8, T9, T10, T15, T20
      Nut Driver Inch: 5/64, 3/32, 7/64, 1/8, 9/64, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32
      Nut Driver Metric: 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0, 4.5, 5.0, 5.5mm
      Pentalobe: PL1, PL2, PL3, PL4, PL5, PL6
      Micro Bit to 1/4" Drive Insert Bit Adapter
      Wiha Micro Bits - Exact Fit Precision Machined
      Micro Bits are ideal for Electronics and Optical Precision tooling
      28mm Long for better handling
      4mm Hex Drive
      Wiha special chrome-vanadium-molybdenum tool steel
      Through hardened for best wear resistance

    • May 12, 2020 2:04 PM EDT
    • Post duplicated

    • May 12, 2020 2:04 PM EDT
    • Don Howard said:

      My Accucraft locomotives are usually happy with metric.

      Wiha set I have: Wiha 26592 precision metric nut driver seven piece set includes 1.5, 1.8, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0mm.

      This set also comes with a green set of pouches to help keep them in order for about $5 or so more-worth it.

      Don, ALL Accucraft models are metric - and always have been.  Another post on 16mm FB suggests that RH change from one system to another at the drop of a hat, but that the steam fittings are usually ME standards. 

    • May 12, 2020 12:55 PM EDT
    • My Accucraft locomotives are usually happy with metric.

      Wiha set I have: Wiha 26592 precision metric nut driver seven piece set includes 1.5, 1.8, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, 3.5, 4.0mm.

      This set also comes with a green set of pouches to help keep them in order for about $5 or so more-worth it.

    • May 12, 2020 10:58 AM EDT
    • .........and more.................................here's a resplone from the mavens on the 16mm FB page - 'Mostly metric with a few BA threads just to confuse, and ME threads on the pipe fittings.'

       

      ME = Model Engineer standard threads.  Much used in UK and anywhere else where models are built using British plans like those of LBSC - Curly Lawrence the late and great.

       

      I can 100% guarantee that you are NOT going to find them in the US of A.  And probably not Canada either.  Like bangers and mash, they are a British thang.

    • May 11, 2020 5:54 PM EDT
    • Jon, in my 20-something years of futzing around with Accucraft's models I've found that the head sizes are approximative, to say the least.  My advise is to get a set of metric, and yes they are MEANT to be metric,  China is metric, just like most of the rest of the world, AND, if you can find them, a set of British BA sizes as well.  There is, oddly enough, a degree of cross-over at certain sizes.  BA - stands for British Association - were used for small electrical fittings and models of all kinds.  The system is also one of threads, as well as bolt head sizes and nut sizes, ranging from the largest, 0, to the absolutely minute 16 BA.  Taps and dies, too, of course.  For certain model applications, there is also a range of bolts with one or two size smaller heads, to get a decent thread with a more scale appearing bolt head.  They are all hexagon, BTW.

       

      If you get stuck, gimme a call and I'll send you a set.  :)

    • May 11, 2020 5:25 PM EDT
    • I am about to order up a set of mini hex nut drivers so I can work on my Accucraft Live Steam Shay.  I'm almost certain they are all metric sizes, but one I could measure with a micrometer came out to 3.2MM. While it is not an unreasonable to think there is .2MM error in my measurement or the painted nut is a bit oversize, I just want to be sure before I order!