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    • May 5, 2019 1:17 AM EDT
    • Made some progress today, was supposed to go to a RC boat meet but the weather had other plans.  So a friend invited me over to awaken the old Reno.  New rubber tubes for water and fuel were needed along with new wicks.  A nice steady rain was falling so just a short run was preformed light engine today.  She run smooth and steady, got in a couple nice slower laps before shutting her down.   Had some issues with a long hanging cow catcher snagging the guard rails on his layout.  I have fixed this issue now that I am home.   Reno raised steam quickly with the new wicks.  I do need to take apart the sight glass as the lower fitting is blocked with deposits so the glass is non functional at the moment.  Debating to either do a vinagar soak to see if it helps any or risk taking the gauge assembly apart so I can poke a stiff wire thru the lower 90' fitting to clear the blockage.   

      [img]https://i.ibb.co/vBcvVnY/Aster-Reno.jpg[/img]

    • May 1, 2019 11:45 AM EDT
    • I have managed to trade for the wild west style live steamer that I wanted.  But she has been sleeping in a display case for many years.  So a bit of going over will be in order once she arrives here in Indiana from the west coast.  He did have the correct drawbar for her, so a home brew one is doing the duties for now, but I will make up one from sheet brass that fits in the proper place.   I also plan to box in the drivers in the cab and install proper wood plank wood flooring(with metal duct work tape on the back side to protect it from any alcohol flare ups). Seat boxes for engineer and fireman will be added along with a crew once I find some resin figures that look the part. I doubt plastic ones would like the heat back there, but resin figures seem to do ok in other models I have, or even metal figures.(any suggestions for seated crew in 1:32nd scale that would tolerate the heat?)   I plan to go after all the brass work with Brasso to restore the shine and I will buff out the paint work.   I have 2 different rakes of passenger coaches, the Kalamazoo set of 3 shorties are heavy, so they should help tame the Reno's speed.  The pair of metal 1:32nd scale Marklin Maxi coaches are lighter weight but would still look good behind the Reno.   She should arrive here early next week hopefully, then the fun can begin!   Plans for a brand new raised line to suit this engine are in the works for later this summer in our back yard.  My old R1 curved line will be torn down at that time, I have had enough of tight curves and the anxiety of models going around those to fast and falling to thier doom 4' down.       Mike the Aspie

      [img]https://i.ibb.co/tmcGVtG/20190429-135943-resized.jpg[/img]

      [img]https://i.ibb.co/7GTPwR4/20190429-135442-resized.jpg[/img]

      [img]https://i.ibb.co/9HGhPHQ/20190429-135233-resized.jpg[/img]

    • May 1, 2019 11:32 AM EDT
    • I did not know that, thanks John!   Anyways, both are now traded off to a new home for this nice old Aster Reno.  She has been sleeping in a display case for many years, so a trip thru the shops to wake her back up, then I will get after that brass work with some Brasso.  Gonna make her sparkle again, just as they did in that period of American railroading.  I have a rake of 3 custom painted Kalamazoo shorty coaches and a pair of 1:32nd yellow Marklin Maxi coaches to pull.  She should look good on either set as she is scaled at 1:28th according to Aster.   The Kalamazoo set will help tame her a bit, with the interiors and figures I have added, they are quite heavy and give my old Kalamazoo 4-4-0 a real work out to pull them.  Mike the Aspie

      [img]https://i.ibb.co/9HGhPHQ/20190429-135233-resized.jpg[/img]

      [img]https://i.ibb.co/tmcGVtG/20190429-135943-resized.jpg[/img]

    • April 30, 2019 9:43 AM EDT
    • Mike Toney said:

      As not all the live steamers might look at the for sale board, I am looking to trade my Regner Konrad & Stainz for an Aster Reno.   Open to cash offers as well but prefer to trade even up for the Reno.   See the ad over in the for sale thread for details on both locomotives.    Thanks  Mike and Michele T

      But you do have 3 listings on the Home page ...

      This reply bumps you back to the top of the list tho'

      Good Luck

    • April 28, 2019 3:50 PM EDT
    • As not all the live steamers might look at the for sale board, I am looking to trade my Regner Konrad & Stainz for an Aster Reno.   Open to cash offers as well but prefer to trade even up for the Reno.   See the ad over in the for sale thread for details on both locomotives.    Thanks  Mike and Michele T

    • April 28, 2019 5:11 PM EDT
    • Final set of tests with a Hitec servo instead of generic chinese SG90s.

       

    • April 25, 2019 4:05 AM EDT
    • I received an RCS TX3 from Tony last week and Winn loaned me a "servo doubler" from Servocity, so it was time for some tests.  Here's the TX3 with the knobs reversed, so the throttle has 150% servo throw preset, and the reverser is 100%.

       

       

      Here's the video of the first set of tests -apologies for the commentator who kept getting his numbers wrong.

       

       

      The following day I repeated a couple of tests to confirm the findings.

       

       

      I have a different servo, a Hitec HS81 spec'd at 162 degrees max, on the way so there will be some more tests.

       - I concluded that RCS' TX3 with the 150% throw does make some servos move 135 degrees instead of the standard 90 degrees.  This can help with a live steam throttle which is rod or chain actuated.

       - The "servo doubler" works as advertised, even on servos that pay no attention to a 150% throw request.  At $20 it is a bit pricey.  With chain and sprockets, it can help where you need more movement of the throttle shaft.

    • April 10, 2019 12:53 AM EDT
    • Hello Peter.

      Deltang powered Tx's such as my RCS Dual Use range with a standard Deltang Tx2 module come with Ch #1 set to 100% of throw (90º) all other channels are 150% (135º).

      Channel # 1 is normally used for the regulator and Ch # 3 for the reverser.

      Whilst servo throws can be changed as long as the Tx2 core module is set to profile # 2, changing them doesn't necessarily help. The throw options are quite limited.

      As you suggested in our private correspondence, what can be done relatively easily, is simply reverse the usage of the Channels.

      Channel # 1 becomes the reverser with 100% throw.

      Channel # 3 becomes the regulator with 150% throw.

      In the case of my RCS handpieces just swap the knobs on the handpiece and swap the servos at the Rx.

       

      BTW. When using a TX2 core module in profile # 2 only, all the servo controls except Ch # 5 can be reversed.

      If anyone needs to know how, drop me a line and I will supply instructions that are understandable.

    • April 9, 2019 1:43 PM EDT
    • Anyone who has converted a live steam engine to radio control has bumped in to the question of how much the throttle servo has to turn the throttle shaft in order to make the engine go properly.  In general, most engines will move on 10-20 degrees of shaft movement, but on an uphill line with 6 heavy coaches you may feel that 180 degrees will be required.

       

      Some years ago I converted my Accucraft C-16 and managed to get about 135 degrees of movement (see below.)  My Accu EBT #12 had only 90 degrees as I didn't try anything special, though I recall Kevin saying he wanted 180 to be able to give it a big burst of steam when needed.  Most live steamers only seem to need about 90 degrees max to function, though you hear that more might be better.  With Jason selling longer tapered fine control throttle shafts, you will definitely need to think about the shaft rotation.

       

       

      My C-16 originally had a regular servo and a long servo arm connected by a wire to the throttle shaft crank, which was shorter than the servo arm.  Simple geometry will show that a long arm moving a shorter one will make the short one move further.  I think I got about 110 degrees, but it is tough to go further as you run in to the mechanical problems of such arms.

      My C-19, on the other hand, had chain drive (1/8" nylon from Servocity.)  In theory, this allows you to alter the ratio of turns between the servo and the throttle shaft and thus move the shaft as much as you want.  A 12 tooth sprocket on the throttle being turned by an 18 tooth on the servo will give you a 1.5 times advantage (i.e. if the servo turns 90 deg, the throttle turns 135.) 

      There are 2 problems - the torque needed is directly proportional to the ratio of the connection (i.e. in the example above, you need 50% more torque than a 1:1 connection,) - and there is a size limit to what can be fitted inside a (model) loco cab.  (Followng pic is my EBT#12, but the C-19 was similar.)

       

       

      I found a 180 degree servo, and replaced the servo in the C-19.  As it turned out, my TX (Deltang TX20) was only sending a 75% move command so my 180 degree servo was only moving 135 degrees!  However, it was more than adequate.  I did research changing the TX to a 100% throttle throw, but it got too complicated and the engine was performing fine, so it was left in that state.

       

      Recently I added a throttle servo to my K4 (another thread, when I get time) and pondered the same issue.  I found a bunch of servos on aliexpress that promised 180, 270 or 360 degrees of rotation, for the robot guys I believe.  However, when they arrived I could see no advantage - most just turned 90 degrees on my test receiver.  One did almost 180 degrees - a Futaba S3003 which was supposed to do 270 (as ordered.)  More research was needed.

       

      It turns (!) out that the pulse sent to the servo (from the RX, under command of the TX) needs to be extended to make it turn more.  The throw on the servos can sometimes be adjusted at the TX - the Spektrum Dx6i will allow you to request a 150% throw on any channels.  At the moment I have not found a TX that can ask for 200%.  Most of the robotic guys seem to be using microprocessors and generating servo pulses in software that are as long as they like.

       

      More to come as my musings and research continue. . .

       

    • April 18, 2019 10:03 PM EDT
    • Thanks Pete.

    • April 18, 2019 7:30 PM EDT
    • Now that I can see the pics, very nice.

    • April 18, 2019 2:48 PM EDT
    • Joe Zullo said:

      I can't seem to find a way that leads to the pictures without being logged in. They have the location buried deep within the site.

      OK.  Sorry - I put them on MLS the quick way, which saved uploading them.  I have now also put a copy on the Freightshed so you should be able to see them.

    • April 17, 2019 3:41 PM EDT
    • I can't seem to find a way that leads to the pictures without being logged in. They have the location buried deep within the site.

    • April 17, 2019 12:59 PM EDT
    • You can see them if you are logged into mylargescale.com

    • April 17, 2019 12:55 PM EDT
    • I'd love to see your model Pete, but the pictures are broken links.  Maybe the dreaded httpS ?

    • April 16, 2019 6:12 PM EDT
    • East Broad Top #1 was the original engine bought to lay the track in the 1880s. It survived, and was given a new boiler when The Big Cheese bought a Business Car (#20, Orbisonia.) It spent its final days pulling him around the railroad.

       

       

      This is my modified Aster JNR 8550 that I built from a kit. I managed to lose some parts - notably the gasket set, but I soldiered on to get a steam-tight model.

       

       

      It has a new stack, but I haven't done any painting yet to get rid of the JNR red or touch up the bolts. The copper top came from Roundhouse (very inexpensive.) The cab is a Bronson-Tate Forney kit from The Train Dept, and I made wooden walkways to match EBT #1. It needs earlier domes, but I haven't done them.

      The tender came from an Accucraft 4-4-0, I think, acquired because it was the right size and had the butane tank. I was determined to convert it to butane, and I bought a 30mm Regner ceramic burner that just fit with a bit of bending. I re-used bits of the Aster tender as #1 had a strange 6-wheel arrangement.

      The conversion isn't particularly successful, as you can't see what is going on. I need to run a suction fan until there is enough steam for the blower, just like an alky, as there isn't enough room for the gas to escape? It does run on rollers, so more experimentation is needed on the track.

      In any case, I can't spend any more time on it so it will soon be For Sale. If anyone wants to return it back to alcohol I have all the tender parts and the burner. I don't think I did anything that isn't reversible. (PM me if you have any interest.)

    • February 12, 2019 10:58 AM EST
    • That’s a fine looking engine, Gerd.  Your metal working skills are top notch. Thanks for taking us on this journey with you. Would love to see a video of it in action one day. 

    • February 12, 2019 10:10 AM EST
    • All that work did indeed make a handsome little locomotive.

    • February 12, 2019 2:18 AM EST
    • Hello, here's the final report on this project.

      Since I was not able to get a second headlight which matched the already installed one, I decide to make two new headlights from stock. The parts are made on the lathe and mill.




      To mount the headlight on the tender, I also made a small pedestal from sheet brass.



      I also added the lettering to the tender and some detail parts like the re-rail frogs. Now the tender is complete and I can start the final tasks on the loco itself.


      First re moved the paint from the cab to fill in all the holes and cut-outs made by the previous owner. I started with screw-holes on the back. I soldered pieces of brass wire into the holes and filed them flush.


      Some more work was needed on the larger cut-outs.


      Here I inserted larger segments of brass sheet. Once sanded smoth and painted, they will be barely visible.


      Once all repaits to the cab were finished, I spend another sand-blast and painted the cab black on the outside and green on the inside.


      The roof got also repainted. And here’s the finished loco, fully assembled.

      Cheers, Gerd