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    • March 20, 2018 4:57 PM EDT
    • Dan,

      That would solve a problem I have!

      I need a set of rollers and could care less if they conduct!  I'ma Dark-Side Battery Guy!

      ps. I'm VERY interested in obtaining a set if you make the available :)

    • March 20, 2018 11:48 AM EDT
    •  

       

      Dan,

      That looks like a great and inexpensive solution to an old issue.

      but keep in mind the old saw about "design by committee"

      http://shepleywood.com/january-the-rope-swing/

    • March 19, 2018 11:39 PM EDT
    • A small ridge, or an angle might work on different size rails. Worth trying on code 250 and 215 track.

       

      Thinking more clearly, if you make the slots wide enough for 332, then smaller rail will still fit, just not touch the outer sides.

       

      The ridge might be better served as a continuous angle, so it work irrespective of rail head height.

       

      Greg

    • March 19, 2018 11:19 PM EDT
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      make them conduct is the key thing.

      I'm experimenting with a flat U shaped spring.

      only make the center part below, then it will work on different rail head widths

      That was my original design but the notch seems more stable.  It's snug but slides nicely on my Aristo and LGB code 332 so wouldn't it fit all gauge 1?

      Make it tight fit to the inside of the rails, like the Bachmann, so they don't slip.

      How wide is the part that extends below the rails?  Mine is snug now @ 44mm but I was thinking of adding a small ridge so it snaps on to the railheads.

       

    • March 19, 2018 10:53 PM EDT
    • make them conduct is the key thing.

       

      only make the center part below, then it will work on different rail head widths

       

      Make it tight fit to the inside of the rails, like the Bachmann, so they don't slip.

       

      Greg

    • March 19, 2018 10:33 PM EDT
    • My test track is only 10 ft so I decided to make a set of rollers like the Bachman EZ Riders.  I brought one to the Greenberg show this past weekend to see what Don Sweet thought of it.  He mentioned the Aristocraft ones are not very stable and suggested I notch the base to fit over the track.  This is what I came up with.

      I'm looking for comments / suggestions to improve this design.  Obviously, the plastic does not conduct power so these would be for battery powered locos (or you could attach leads).   I've thought about possibly making them adjustable for O scale but these bearings may be too big.  Also, maybe I should add a handle on the side to aid in adjusting them?

    • March 9, 2018 11:31 PM EST
    • Prototype of the max/min stepped gauge (Greg's idea) with a slot for the USAT gear (Richard's idea).  I had an axle that needed a sleeve, so I gave it a try.  It worked well.  It presses the axle to the correct gauge, and ensures that the gear is centered.

    • March 8, 2018 8:22 PM EST
    • Forgot to add Fred in as that Aristo gauge could buy a damn good dram or two on Ebay

    • March 8, 2018 8:20 PM EST
    • We are rich Greg ! I still have barber trucks with "end caps" in stock

    • March 8, 2018 4:31 PM EST
    • Good thing I bought 2 for $10 each

      I've also tweaked them, a couple of the measurements on the go/no go gauge were off by a few thousandths.

       

      Greg

    • March 8, 2018 4:07 PM EST
    • Yeah, I looked all over the place for the Aristo gauge and couldn't find one.  One on Ebay just went for 42 bucks! 

    • March 8, 2018 3:51 PM EST
    • Fred Mills. said:

      For most purposes, the Aristocraft wheel and track gauge seems to work well, and is reasonably simple. 

      I totally agree, but they are going for more than $40 on eBay.  

       

    • March 8, 2018 3:48 PM EST
    • Based on the input here, and a couple of PMs, here's a new version.  It has steps for max and min gauge, and a slot for the USAT gear in the center.  This will also allow for centering the gear when pressing the axles back together.  I just need to measure the width and diameter of that gear before finalizing the design.  

    • March 8, 2018 3:33 PM EST
    • For most purposes, the Aristocraft wheel and track gauge seems to work well, and is reasonably simple. Too bad that no-one is manufacturing it at present.  Might be one old Aristo product, that Kader/Bachmann should consider producing.  I favour their +/- features, and the fact that they are made of metal so they don't wear out too fast.

        Fred Mills

    • March 8, 2018 2:47 PM EST
    • David

      Thank you very much.

      Tom

       

    • March 8, 2018 5:49 AM EST
    • Sure

       

    • March 7, 2018 9:56 PM EST
    • David Maynard said:

      I downloaded a drawing for a wheel gauge from the Saskatoon Model Engineers, and it has the back to back at 39.5mm But since I don't set my wheels tight to the back to back, I set my wheels so the flanges fit in the slots and rotate in the gauge freely, my wheels are probably just a smidge under 40mm back to back. It works for me.

      John Bouck said:
      All track is not a perfect 45mm spacing........

      Actually, none of my (commercially made) track is, its all a bit wider. I have found the same to be true in HO. The NMRA track gauge falls between the rails, because its over-gauge too. I wonder if manufacturers do this on purpose (for whatever reason) of if its just that manufacturing tolerances aren't tight enough to get the gauge spot on.

      David

      Is this drawing something you could post?

      Tom

       

    • March 7, 2018 5:01 PM EST
    • I downloaded a drawing for a wheel gauge from the Saskatoon Model Engineers, and it has the back to back at 39.5mm But since I don't set my wheels tight to the back to back, I set my wheels so the flanges fit in the slots and rotate in the gauge freely, my wheels are probably just a smidge under 40mm back to back. It works for me.

      John Bouck said:
      All track is not a perfect 45mm spacing........

      Actually, none of my (commercially made) track is, its all a bit wider. I have found the same to be true in HO. The NMRA track gauge falls between the rails, because its over-gauge too. I wonder if manufacturers do this on purpose (for whatever reason) of if its just that manufacturing tolerances aren't tight enough to get the gauge spot on.

    • March 7, 2018 3:12 PM EST
    • I'm finding that to be true, now that I'm gauging them properly.  The flange is a bit thicker than an Aristo wheel, but the profile is very different.  I may need to modify the gauge to the minimum specified thickness.  Snow day tomorrow, so I'll futz around with it.