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    • January 24, 2020 7:16 PM EST
    • http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=2510

    • January 24, 2020 4:36 PM EST
    • Hi guys,

      My brother-in-law has a pretty good machine shop. While visiting a few weeks ago I noticed this perched on one of his toolboxes:

      Pretty nifty, huh? Apparently these were made in the late 1940's and early 1950's. The whole thing is probably only a foot long and fully functional.


      Cheers,

      Matt

    • January 23, 2020 2:46 PM EST
    • I like using Ambroid Pro Weld Professional plastic welder when gluing plastic together. I have used it on a couple of scratch built freight cars and it does a good job.

    • January 22, 2020 3:43 AM EST
    • The needle bottles can be picked up at Hobby Lobby. I used MEK at work for years. it was a carrier for automotive window primer and we used it to clean up spills or drips. The primer we applied to the glass flange on the car body was brushed on out of a measuring cup that we held in front of us. Can't tell ya how many times I about hit the floor from the fumes gassing off from the open cup.......

    • January 21, 2020 7:43 PM EST
    • Over on MRH, Joe F has come up with a healthy substitute for MEK. I will have to search for it and post here. I haven't tried it yet, but will when the MEK runs out.

       https://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/node/8083?page=6

      I second the needle bottle.

    • January 21, 2020 7:17 PM EST
    • Our big box stores (Lowes & Home Depot) both carry MEK in quart cans.  If you can't source it in your state I could grab you one and send it UPS to you

    • January 21, 2020 5:14 PM EST
    • Devon Sinsley said:
      Bill Barnwell said:

      The glue that Plastruct sells is pretty good

      Not sure about the other brands listed but the Plastruct stuff is M.E.K. or at least partially so, or it was 10 years ago. The only reason I switched to straight M.E.K. was I realized I was spending as much for a 1oz bottle of Plastruc as I could buy a quart of M.E.K. and get the same thing. I tried it after buying it and it worked just as good as the Plastruc stuff, maybe even better, and I figured I had a quart so it would be a life time supply. Until you loose the can.

       

      The only real issue I have with straight M.E.K. is the container. So either save a plustruc bottle, or some similar, or some other smaller glass bottle with a lid and then get a paint brush and your off and running. That is until you break the lid on the plastuc bottle and spill the rest and then can't find the big container.

      Devon,

      I get my MEK at the local Ace hardware store. I keep it in 1 oz. needle tip plastic bottles (really, they don't melt). We kept MEK in plastic bottles at work too [Northrop/Grumman].

      Here is a link to similar bottles on Amazon...Needle tip bottles

    • January 21, 2020 4:55 PM EST
    • Acetone will work almost as well as MEK. I have used acetone in a pinch. Chemically they are similar compounds. But real MEK is the good stuff.

       

      I never tried substitute MEK. I did try the substitute TSP. What a waste of good money that was.

    • January 21, 2020 12:51 PM EST
    • I use IPS Weld-On 3 Acrylic Plastic Cement as my Plastruct and MEK replacement.  So far it has worked well for me for my indoor projects and I do most of the application with a brush.

    • January 21, 2020 12:07 PM EST
    • If I were really smart I would just drill a hole in a piece of wood that I can stick my plastruc bottle in and keep me from spilling it. For every ounce I use on plastic I spill 60 oz. If I could keep from spilling it all the time I wouldn't need so much and a bottle of plastruc would last a life time. As is I am lucky if the bottle last one project.

       

    • January 21, 2020 12:04 PM EST
    • Bill Barnwell said:

      The glue that Plastruct sells is pretty good

      Not sure about the other brands listed but the Plastruct stuff is M.E.K. or at least partially so, or it was 10 years ago. The only reason I switched to straight M.E.K. was I realized I was spending as much for a 1oz bottle of Plastruc as I could buy a quart of M.E.K. and get the same thing. I tried it after buying it and it worked just as good as the Plastruc stuff, maybe even better, and I figured I had a quart so it would be a life time supply. Until you loose the can.

       

      The only real issue I have with straight M.E.K. is the container. So either save a plustruc bottle, or some similar, or some other smaller glass bottle with a lid and then get a paint brush and your off and running. That is until you break the lid on the plastuc bottle and spill the rest and then can't find the big container.

    • January 21, 2020 11:26 AM EST
    • The glue that Plastruct sells is pretty good, also model power works well and Tamiya wicking glue works great for gluing thin cracks actually wicks into the crevice, Bill    

    • January 21, 2020 11:17 AM EST
    • Devon Sinsley said:

      Not sure if anyone cares about this but I will throw it out there in case. So I have misplaced or lost my container of M.E.K. I bought a quart of it like 10 years ago and now I have no idea what I did with it. So I went to replace it and my local ACE didn't have M.E.K. they had some stuff that said M.E.K. substitute "works any where M.E.K. does". . . Well it does not work as a plastic welder. So before you buy it to try it don't, at least not as a plastic solvent. 

      Yep.  Years ago (about 8) M.E.K. was removed from the shelves and replaced with the "safer" substitute stuff.  Since then, M.E.K. has returned to the shelves in the big box stores when enough folks complained it didn't work nearly as well.  I believe the same thing happened with TSP.

      -Dan

    • January 21, 2020 9:29 AM EST
    • Not sure if anyone cares about this but I will throw it out there in case. So I have misplaced or lost my container of M.E.K. I bought a quart of it like 10 years ago and now I have no idea what I did with it. So I went to replace it and my local ACE didn't have M.E.K. they had some stuff that said M.E.K. substitute "works any where M.E.K. does". . . Well it does not work as a plastic welder. So before you buy it to try it don't, atleast not as a plastic solvent. 

    • November 25, 2019 5:29 AM EST
    • I have only used coroplast for buildings. And for larger structures it needs some kind of internal bracing., It can bow or bend over time. I did use Axec square extrusions to make my bridge, and it is definitely more ridged, and glues up easier, but I cant say how sheets of it would work out since I haven't used any of them.

    • November 24, 2019 10:34 PM EST
    • There are differing formulas to be sure.  We get ours from 3 different suppliers. One brand, PA-Light is a very loose (larger bubbles) foam and has a somewhat pebble surface. Another brand, Komatex, is much denser foam and heavier. The surface skin is a very high gloss and the 48" tall sheets are actually over 49" with a formed semi bull nose edge. The third supplier we rarely buy from (higher price) shares characteristics of the other two; more dense like Komatex, but cut edges like PA-Light.

       

      At the local Lowes they sell Azek. I've not used enough of it to recall it's characteristics.  I think they also sell Royal which has a slightly different surface texture. I'm sure there are even more brands with varying characteristics.

       

      For use as a substrate for making vinyl signs the brand doesn't matter. But for CNC cut letters and decorative details like post skirts, we prefer the glossy finish of the Komatex.  For modeling, as a substrate, I would think the less shiny surfaces would take glue better. And if you are going to carve; you want the light stuff with larger bubbles. It bends easier, but cuts easier too.

    • November 24, 2019 8:49 PM EST
    • I'll wait for Jon R. to reply and clear this up for my mistakes....

       

      But .... There is variations of the stuff I (we) call Sintra, Azek & Komatex are just a few brand names.  And I would be only guessing the difference in charistics between the brands.

       

      All of what I call "Sentra" is of a uniform white composition all the way thru, and rather smooth on the surfaces .    Fairly soft to cut and carve.   I have also had some "Stuff" of the same like, that had a rather hard outer shell and fairly soft foamy inside that was used for signage.

       

       Jon R,  having worked in the industry would know better, and I hope that he chimes in and gives a better description of each product and such.

       

      Ding Dong.... Calling Jon R...

       

    • November 24, 2019 7:56 PM EST
    • Watching this thread hoping I may learn something.

    • November 24, 2019 7:29 PM EST
    •    I got some large free Sintra scraps from a sign printer here, but I had a heck of a time carving it. If you or Ray would fill me in on the best way to carve it, I'd appreciate it.