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    • May 27, 2019 5:10 PM EDT
    • Thanks for the suggestions, all. So it would seem that the best option would be to use a professional paint booth/room. The second best option would be to paint indoors with an air purifier. Regardless, painting outdoors is not the way to go. 

       

      I would like to paint indoors, but I don't have a paint booth, and my parents would come close to murder me if I painted inside. But I in theory I would like to make my own paint booth and do it inside. I guess I ought to find a professional paint booth. Unfortunately, the one paint booth I knew about is now gone.

    • May 27, 2019 3:10 PM EDT
    • Joe

      If this is going to be a show room paint job I would look around in your area for a auto body shop or a sign shop in Ma. if you do any spraying you have to have a clean spray room check around and you may find one you can use and don't forget tack off first otherwise you will have dust right from start.

      Cheers Richard

    • May 27, 2019 2:07 PM EDT
    • The art of a dust free paint job is a dust free environment to start with. Outdoors is NOT dust free. There is all sorts of dust and pollen that you can't see until it lands in your paint. Greg's suggestion is a good one, but start the unit BEFORE you start painting, like 12-24 hours and keep the door to the room closed. Also close off the A/C vents to the room, they will transfer dust from other areas of the house, the filter is not perfect unless you have a very expensive HEPA filter in you air handler. This will eliminate the majority of the dust in that room (call it a clean room) to start the paint job. A paint booth with exhaust fan, and filter to catch the over spray, to the outside will be another asset, controlling all the fume from the paint and keeping it from circulating into the house. The last ingredient to a good paint job is low humidity. High humidity slows the drying/flash time and will, depending on the paint, orange peel, and/or blush the finish. Multiple light coats are better than one or two heavier coats.

    • May 27, 2019 12:38 PM EDT
    • I'm a bit allergic to dust, so I got one of those filter units and leave it circulating in my office at work (many commercial buildings are older and have dust), very quiet and pulls a lot of dust from the air.

      Maybe one of those small filter units would help letting it dry inside.

      https://www.lowes.com/pd/Idylis-3-Speed-193-sq-ft-True-HEPA-Air-Purifier-ENERGY-STAR/4565043

       

      Greg

       

       

    • May 27, 2019 10:18 AM EDT
    • First thing I would try is setting freshly painted shell somewhere that one of those large clear plastic storage containers could be set inverted over it. Put container up on a slice of 1x2 at each corner and air will circulate to let solvent evaporate but dust won't have a direct path to settle.

    • May 27, 2019 9:50 AM EDT
    • Hello all,

      I have a project I am working on, and I plan to spray paint the shell of a loco. But, I have a problem. I recently painted a scrap piece of plastic to test the paint color. When I did this, I noticed that there were many little dust particles stuck to the paint as it was drying. If it weren't for the dust particles, the coat of paint would have looked pretty good. The question: Is there any way to paint it without getting dust or dirt on the drying paint? When I painted the piece, I did it outdoors, and them moved it indoors to dry. It is particularly dusty indoors, but if I leave it to dry outdoors, the wind will blow little dirt particles onto the paint. Any suggestions?

    • April 3, 2019 10:55 PM EDT
    • I use Testors rust to paint the outside of the wheels. Do ya'll paint the locomotive wheels also?

    • April 3, 2019 10:45 PM EDT
    • Jon Radder said:

      To each his own!

       

      The black tones down the red a lot.  I have an old spike that I use a a color guide.  My ruddy brown / black mist is dang near dead on when done right and I do it right about 60% of the time.

       

       

      I agree, when done right it can look real good.

       

    • April 1, 2019 4:13 PM EDT
    • To each his own!

       

      The black tones down the red a lot.  I have an old spike that I use a a color guide.  My ruddy brown / black mist is dang near dead on when done right and I do it right about 60% of the time.

       

       

    • April 1, 2019 8:32 AM EDT
    • Jon

      I use the Earth Brown Camo paint as a base coat . See the source image Not as red .. they have some cool colors . ultra flat finish ..

      I also just used an elastic to mask the treads .. and Vaseline to cover the shaft ends. poked into some card board .. sprayed them flipped and done again ..

       

      A lot of cool info here :theweatheringshop - trucks

       

    • March 31, 2019 2:00 PM EDT
    • Nice Dan!!!!

    • March 31, 2019 12:18 PM EDT
    • I just mix up some acrylic paint (brown, black, grey) to an appropriate color, load up a brush and spin the wheels in situ as the brush puts the color on.

    • March 31, 2019 9:38 AM EDT
    • My masking jig.  3D printed using flexible filament.

      https://largescalecentral.com/FileSharing/user_2332/General/Wheel%20Mask.jpg 

    • March 31, 2019 8:16 AM EDT
    • Gee, I just mask the axle ends with some 1/4 wide masking tape, and then paint the wheels the same as you did. After an hour or so of running on the railroad, the wheel treads are clean.

    • March 30, 2019 9:49 PM EDT
    • Hey, now that is an idea!
      Think it is time to find the "save page as" key.

    • March 30, 2019 8:46 PM EDT
    • I originally posted this method on MyLargeScale possibly 15 years ago. That post and the photos are long gone :(  I needed to paint a bunch today - so I took pictures to put the method back out there again.  I am using Aristo chrome finish metal wheels, but this method would work for any brand / color.

       

      I start with a bunch of rubber O-Rings that are sized to match the tread diameter of my wheels. The O-Rings are about 1.375" outside diameter. They slip over the tread masking it and the flange from paint. Next I mask the axle ends with some wire insulation that has been plugged at one end with a short piece of solid wire - #14 I think...

       

      The trucks were painted previously using the same paint colors / technique.  I made up a jig to hold the wheels while I paint the axles and the back....

       

      I am using Krylon Ruddy Brown Primer as the base color, then misting with Krylon Flat Black before the ruddy brown dries. Here the Rudddy Brown has been sprayed on the backs and the axle. Paint on the wheel faces is just over spray...

       

      The wheels are taken out of the jig to paint the faces. In retrospect the jig was probably not needed at all...

       

      Next, the wheels are misted with the Flat Black to darken up the color getting closer to an old rust color...

       

      Back indoors an hour later the o-rings and insulation masking is removed. One pair has been installed in a truck. I lubricate the axle ends with Hob-E-lube oil...

       

      These wheels and trucks were prepared to finish the Delton Wood Hoppers I picked up last weekend in York...

       

      Before coming up with this method I used to paint everything then clean the axle ends and treads with lacquer thinner. This is much faster and lots less exposure to nasty fumes!

    • February 15, 2019 1:14 PM EST
    • Devon, once you set the speed close to what you want with the pulleys/belt, you should be able to adjust the speed with a variac.

    • February 15, 2019 11:55 AM EST
    • As a PS to Ross, mine is the square aluminum stock bed... in red as Devon pictured. edit; also German or Austrian make, a precision toy.

      I turned a 4" On3 hollow boiler, in wax for casting.

      It did what I wanted to do.