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    • June 30, 2019 6:23 AM EDT
    • Ross Mansell said:

      Hey Max..how about this then     It shows enamel on model small scale car being stripped.

      https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Paint-from-Metal-and-Plastic-Models-with-Dettol

      Yep...DETTOL!!   (  For US readers - it  is an anti-sceptic liquid   (& needs dilution before medical use in most cases.)

        I believe it is one of the ingredients that does the job.

      Plenty of info on Googs if you query Derrol paint stripping.  Seems the plastic kit aeromodellers use it......

      I have used it with some success  on a large scale wagon....but it can turn  out a bit expensive for full immersion...although it can be diluted!

      Just found this  on a forum about DETTOL  &   models/stripping.... :-

      I believe the active ingredient, stripping wise, is Pine Oil and this is why it does the same job as Simple Green as it too contains Pine Oil. 

       

       

      One wonders just how this method was discovered!

      Ah, so is that why some folks say they use Pine Sol to strip paint? I never tried it, but now I just might have to.

    • June 30, 2019 4:42 AM EDT
    • Very interesting Ross, one to add to the list. I have a bottle of the stuff hanging around, I'll give it a go sometime. Some years ago a chemistry teacher of my acquaintance gave me the low down on why Sodium Hydroxide would be so effective in the removal of oil based paints and similar - hence its inclusion in a lot of preparations that fulfilled that purpose. I forget now what he told me, as ever was the case for me in science classes (my father had a degree in chemistry, shame on me !).

       

      I note that a lot of "specialist" providers of various preparations for cleaning and removal of substance, and other things, are loath to put in plain English what are the active ingredients of whatever potion with an extraordinary mark up they are pushing. For obvious reasons. These days one cannot avoid those stories, now in most tabloids, of people who exclaim. " How I cleaned a whole house with nothing but a lemon, a tin of bicarb' of soda and a bottle of white vinegar and added £30K to its value !". Perhaps there is a need for central database (sticky topic ?) where these more basic economical alternatives to common hobbyists issues can be listed ? Remember the days you could walk into a British chemist shop and only had to look for the suffix "BP" to know you were not having to pay for a lot of someone else's top heavy marketing budget and getting a good no nonsense product that would "do the job" ? Have I pushed this a little to far away from the OP's original topic ? Sorry.

    • June 30, 2019 3:15 AM EDT
    • Hey Max..how about this then     It shows enamel on model small scale car being stripped.

      https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Paint-from-Metal-and-Plastic-Models-with-Dettol

      Yep...DETTOL!!   (  For US readers - it  is an anti-sceptic liquid   (& needs dilution before medical use in most cases.)

        I believe it is one of the ingredients that does the job.

      Plenty of info on Googs if you query Derrol paint stripping.  Seems the plastic kit aeromodellers use it......

      I have used it with some success  on a large scale wagon....but it can turn  out a bit expensive for full immersion...although it can be diluted!

      Just found this  on a forum about DETTOL  &   models/stripping.... :-

      I believe the active ingredient, stripping wise, is Pine Oil and this is why it does the same job as Simple Green as it too contains Pine Oil. 

       

       

      One wonders just how this method was discovered!

    • June 29, 2019 2:39 AM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      the original factory black on most engines (Bachmann in my case) is just plastic or is it painted black?

      Yes it could be, or not. You will know when you disassemble it and the inside of the parts is or is not black. The Bachmann locomotives I have are black plastic, but as soon as I say that all black ones are black plastic, I will be wrong.

       

      Partially correct - A lot of black locos, like Bachmann's, will have some form of lacquer coating, as with a semi-matt/satin finish to get rid of that "plasticky" appearance. So be aware if re-painting. I have noticed though that on some parts, like trucks and some superstructure on their tank cars, they do not bother. In itself overcoating an existing paint/lacquer finish should not be a problem so long as you check for your chosen paint finish's and undercoat's compatibility with the existing one. The only problem to consider then is that you do not coat too heavily and obliterate any fine detail.

       

      Regards Ross's suggestion of the UK found product "Modelstrip". This is a product primarily intended  for the removal of oil based paints, such as enamels, and similar finishes on styrene plastics. Its "active" ingredient is Sodium Hydroxide. Careful if selecting a product sold as a household cleaner for an alternative where this compound is  included, it can be formulated to be quite caustic - like oven cleaners - and could damage plastics. Sadly, in the UK, household product makers stopped using this as a base for their products a few years ago cutting off cheaper alternatives to the Modelstrip product. Phoenix Precision Paints, also from the UK, make a similar fluid product rather than a paste. Perhaps similar is available in the US ?

       

    • June 28, 2019 4:15 PM EDT
    • the original factory black on most engines (Bachmann in my case) is just plastic or is it painted black?

      Yes it could be, or not. You will know when you disassemble it and the inside of the parts is or is not black. The Bachmann locomotives I have are black plastic, but as soon as I say that all black ones are black plastic, I will be wrong.

    • June 28, 2019 12:12 PM EDT
    • This may seem like a dumb question, but the original factory black on most engines (Bachmann in my case) is just plastic or is it painted black?  In my case I bought a loco that had previously been weathered and I do not like the job so want to return it to original, which may not be realistic.

    • June 19, 2019 10:54 AM EDT
    • I use 91% all the time, never took anywhere close to a month.  Stripped this USA Trains SD40-2 in less than 24 hours using it.   I always use a stiff (not wire) brush to help it along.

       

       

          If you have cleared your model with Rustoleum clear, it will take a while longer though.    In the end, it is cheap enough to try it first.

       

       

    • June 19, 2019 10:03 AM EDT
    • .

      I have used  (in the UK)  Modelstrip  quite successfully... which MAY be available in the US..  Did quite a few N scale items and they turned out ok.  

      Modlestrip is designed for removing paint without damage to the model. To use 'Modelstrip', you simply plaster your model all over with the paste (few mm thick) in the areas that you wish to remove paint from. You then place the model in an air tight plastic bag and leave it over night in a warm airing cupboard..

      The following morning, remove from the bag and simply wash the model under the water tap. The paste will wash off and take the paint with it. In my experience of the product, a little light brushing is also required, but it is very successful and it is purposely made for the job: ie is does not attack plastics.

      It effectively dissolves paint and has no effect on the surface on which the paint has been placed. You can therefore managed to use it successfully to remove paint from metal/brass models as well as plastic surfaces.

    • June 17, 2019 1:54 PM EDT
    • Well I tried 90/10 alcohol, on these little hauler ore cars and first picture is of the car after 2 days/48 hrs. barely touched it, the second picture is after soaking for 1 hr  in purple power, had some one that I recommended it to said it didn't work after 2 days but mine did and the only thing I can say is mine is some old stock and perhaps it is now a different formula but then again he sprayed it and let it soak through some towels   alcohol

       

       

               purple power 1 hr

    • June 17, 2019 11:35 AM EDT
    • Joe Loll said:

      ... but a well known loco painter claimed that if using Alcohol, it could take a month to completely strip. 


       

       

      I'm not well known but my experience with half a dozen Hartland Locomotive Works ore tipper bins was that high percentage isopropyl alcohol took off the Rustoleum satin whatever its name boxcar red-ish hue it was,  or was it Krylon, here several years later I don't remember for sure, (what I am sure of is that the brand was not Pactra) took off the paint overnight. Put 2 bins at a time in a large plastic food storage container, poured in several bottles of alcohol, closed the container's lid, and went on about life until the next day.

    • June 17, 2019 11:28 AM EDT
    • A month? 91% stuff will strip it in 24-48 hours.

      The weaker stuff (70%) is worthless and would take a month to strip.

      I've never tried the other stuff.

    • June 17, 2019 10:17 AM EDT
    • I recently painted a loco shell with Rustoleum spray paint. The paint job came out just fine, but I decided I didn't like the finish and wanted a different color. So, I need to strip it. I assume most of you would recommend Alcohol for the task, but a well known loco painter claimed that if using Alcohol, it could take a month to completely strip. 

       

      But what about using Super Clean or Purple Power? 

      Have any of you had success with these products?

       

       

    • May 29, 2019 9:41 AM EDT
    • Well I don't hose down the area but I find in the winter when the air is extremely dry and you can see dust floating in the air I fill my airbrush with water and mist the area where I going to paint. The extremely dry air also promotes static electricity  especially on plastic models and wiping them down or brushing them off prior to painting only makes them attract dust. The above application of a mist of water to the air tends to lesson the static as well. I use most lacquer based paint of lacquer thinned enamels so they dry quickly and seem to be less bothered by some humidity in the air. On items large enough to use spray bombs on I usually do outside and on large items I'm less concerned about a little dust in the paint as compared to what mother nature will do to it in time anyway.

    • May 28, 2019 12:01 PM EDT
    • Try and hose down the area you are going to paint min ..that should help with dust ...

    • May 28, 2019 10:57 AM EDT
    • The unit I showed indeed has HEPA, I concur with all of Bob C's posts, although the filters (carbon and hepa) are available through Amazon at reasonable prices. The filter prices have come down from what they used to be.

       

      I would only use a HEPA unit to get that fine dust.

       

      I agree with you Joe, get a good paint job and then weather to suit. Our dust is not to scale, does not make suitable weathering

       

      Greg

       

      p.s. shut up rooster

    • May 28, 2019 8:55 AM EDT
    • I'm not striving for the perfect paint job, but bothers me when I look at my paint job and see little specs all over it. I take pride in my work, and I want it to look good. Who wouldn't?

       

      I've since made a spray booth from a cardboard box, as shown on Rustoluem's Youtube channel. I tested it out, and it seems to work fine. 

    • May 27, 2019 9:19 PM EDT
    • Joe Loll said:

      Hello all,

      I have a project I am working on, and I plan to spray paint the shell of a loco. But, I have a problem. I recently painted a scrap piece of plastic to test the paint color. When I did this, I noticed that there were many little dust particles stuck to the paint as it was drying.

      SO WHAT !

       

      It's a locomotive right ?

      So you are going to strive for the ultimate paint job then after it's done tell us is looks too shiny and it needs weathered? Are you planning on putting it up on jackstands with mirrors under it or are you gonna run it ?  I paint indoors in my parents house all the time but I also paint outside as well.

       

       

       

      St. Marks Hospital in London did some heavy research on anal retentiveness back in 1996 and this "vignette" of their (there,they're,they are) findings will drive the west coast guys nuts and the spelling police insane.

       

      Paint it and run it and POST PICTURES OF IT  ...that's my thoughts ....armchair modeling will someday become a hobby of mine but not yet.

    • May 27, 2019 8:55 PM EDT
    • I bought a small tent. It was about $25.

      It is a rectangle with one of the long sides that opens.

      I paint outside. It keeps out the wind and direct sun.

      A turntable/lazy susan helps a lot.

      Tom

       

    • May 27, 2019 8:16 PM EDT
    • well, you might do it the simple way...

       

      get a big cardboard box, put it upon the garbage  bin (the opening sideways). glue a sheet of plastic that can cover the opening to the top.

      inside lay a piece of cardboard for use of "turntable" (a real lazy susan or similar would be better)

       

      paint your model (carefull, in the closed space it needs less spray)

      lower the sheet of plastic

       

      after enough time take out your model

      throw away your painting chamber.

       

      works for me.

    • May 27, 2019 6:51 PM EDT
    • Joe - You can build a paint booth out of a large cardboard carton for an air conditioner or washer/dryer, A tiny bit of wood for reinforcement and a bathroom exhaust fan. Be sure to get a fan with the motor external to the air path to reduce risk of fire.  An LED strip light and a length of dryer hose and you are good to go!  You may still get some smell in the house.