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    • February 9, 2019 10:18 PM EST
    • I have one, I set it up with 3 or 4 reducing blocks to turn carving wax.

      It does fine on wax, I had fun playing with it, but I've never pushed it hard to see what it can do.


      edit: part 2

      I consider it a lathe and mill 1st.

      If you need a drill press, get a drill press.

      This is more like a toy that can do several tasks ok, but none well,

      kind of fussy and uses friction locks.

    • February 9, 2019 9:43 PM EST
    • Well no multi-tool is as good as individual tools of each type. But, for hobby use, unless your expecting to machine parts for live steam, it will probably work great.

      I know 130 bucks is a 130 bucks but when it comes to machine tools well, that's not so much, pay more than that for an impact driver.

    • February 9, 2019 9:34 PM EST
    • As long as you don’t expect  precision and close tolerances, the only Harbor Freight tool I am not happy with is  my compound miter saw, its drives me nuts every time I use it to set it to square. But then again my Craftsman table saw is out of square too so my house is full o odd ball things

    • February 9, 2019 7:56 PM EST
    • Does anyone have any experience with THESE I think it would be fun to play with. I was looking for a mini drill press and don't really use a rotary tool enough to buy a variable speed one and a drill press stand for it. I also don't want to spend a fortune on a good one from say micromark. This will be a very limited use sort of thing so just can't see dropping a bunch of money even though I know "you get what you pay for". But like my harbor freight pin nailer and my harbor freight disc/belt sander I find cheaper tools work just fine for my limited use. So with that said I was looking at little bench top jewelry drill presses in the 50 buck range that would be about right where I want to be. But then stumbled on this. I could see having a lot of fun with it. But if its complete garbage I don't want to waste my money. Its $130 on Amazon. Ratings are somewhat lack luster but I kinda expected that. 

    • January 25, 2019 11:55 PM EST
    • Just now went to go attempt some more very slooooooooooow progress on a couple HLW Mack modifications and found this.

      What's happening with these adhesives tubes?

      They have been in a ziplock bag in a box on my kitchen table for several months, so it's not like they've been in an extreme environment.








      And in another 'What's up with that?', because my body has been difficult to get along with the last several days, I've been doing a lot of sitting in front of the computer, when not lying down and/or sleeping.

      (there are reasons I don't/can't watch TV, so there isn't even a TV set in my apartment with which to pass the time watching)

      Use the mouse with right hand, (this desk's size and configuration kind of make that mandatory) but, no, it's the LEFT hand which has been having spams today.


      There is no logical cause and effect in this neurological & endocrine & musculoskeletal, crap.
      Ya know, it's no wonder people who have these things often end up as mental cases.

    • January 16, 2019 10:46 PM EST
    • And the old nails really sparkle when I come across them with the table saw blade.

    • January 16, 2019 1:33 PM EST
    • I love reclaimed wood over new for a lot of things. I ended up with some rough cut Douglas fir 2X4s that once cut down and sanded just popped with detail in the grain in a wood not know for grain. The way the lights and darks separated just can't be duplicated. You can see it in your pile of cedar. I made a picture frame a few months back, a very simple thing and sanded it down just enough to take away the splinters and man it looked awesome. Even old nail holes look good as they stain and turn black.

    • August 28, 2018 11:45 PM EDT
    • I recently got about 250 feet of redwood 1x4 T&G siding that I will be processing next. I will likely cut into dimensional lumber to build a model of the Colorado and Southern Clear Creek truss bridge. 

    • August 28, 2018 8:08 PM EDT
    • Love it !

       Best part of recycling old lumber like that is hitting the nails that you didn't catch. What's great about a saw "the sparks will alert you" causing an instant decision making session of whether to continue to push it thru or stop.

    • August 28, 2018 6:19 PM EDT
    • David Marconi,FOGCH said:


       You might want to add the use of a metal detector wand to make sure you have found all the possible metal bits from said wood

      If detectors weren't so expensive, I would have done that. I've recycled about 50 boards, and I missed one nail piece. 


      Note: then I just found (Googled) that Harbor Freight sells one for $17. Cen-Tech Metal Detector I will definitely get one of those, as I still have a bunch of wood left to cut up, and many bridges to build! 

      Edit: Here's one on Amazon for $25: Little Wizard 2

    • August 28, 2018 5:59 PM EDT
    • Russell,

       You might want to add the use of a metal detector wand to make sure you have found all the possible metal bits from said wood

    • August 28, 2018 4:29 PM EDT
    • Yup, that is how its done. I have reclaimed a decent amount of wood that way.

    • August 28, 2018 2:50 PM EDT
    • I have a house that is over 100 years old, and in the past got a load of cedar channel siding that was reclaimed from a similar house. Many of the pieces were only 1-2 feet long, so not very useful for repairs, but very useful for model bridge building (and other scale lumber use) because it is all old-growth cedar as shown in Photo 1. It is very likely that you can find a recycled building material company in your area where you can obtain old cedar or redwood.


      Raw Material


      I did quite a lot of research into reclaiming wood on the internet to learn from pros. There are a few things that need to be done to prepare reclaimed wood for processing. First, reclaimed wood is likely dirty. Hose and brush it off thoroughly to remove dirt and small stones. Next, and most important, remove all nails and screws before cutting or ripping with power tools. A nail will ruin a saw blade and perhaps cause dangerous kick-back. Suitable tools are medium hammer, pry bar or pliers. If you can’t pull a nail because of the tight bond with the wood, you can drill right next to the nail with a small bit to relieve some of the pressure holding it in place. Use an old or cheap bit, as it will get dulled by contact with the nails.


      Use a sander to remove irregularities and smooth the surfaces for easier handling on the saw. Remaining nails may show up after sanding, as they will perhaps be shiny, but don’t count on that. Old, rusty square (iron) nails are not shiny.


      Completely hidden nails can be located using a rare-earth magnet suspended with fine string or fishing line as shown in Photo 2. This can be passed closely over the wood surface, and will be strongly attracted to any remaining iron or steel. Mark the location with chalk so you can easily find it later. The magnet allowed me to find a ½” piece of square nail that was completely inside the board – no head and nothing visible on either side.


      Magnet, Nails and Wood


      The severe weathering of the siding only extends a little ways in from the ends in most cases, and a fraction of an inch in depth. Note in the photo how tight the grain is, and how nice the cedar coloring still is even after 100 years except where rust has discolored the wood.


      To prepare the wood for ripping, I took a small amount off the edges of each piece to provide a straight edge. If both edges are too uneven to get a good rip cut, temporarily nail a straight board slightly overhanging the ragged edge to run against the rip fence.


      I finish the ripped wood using 60-grit sandpaper in a palm sander to smooth the sides and get to correct finished size.


    • August 8, 2018 8:00 PM EDT
    • Bill Barnwell said:

      guess most people are still using a rotary dial phone, LOL

      Well there are some downsides to this gadget, it's definitely not perfect.

      So, it has it's place but for the downsides, I think I'll stick to my methods.


      It's apparently been invented for quick in the field splices of "holiday lights".



    • August 8, 2018 7:53 PM EDT
    • Sean McGillicuddy said:
      Bill Barnwell said:

      guess most people are still using a rotary dial phone, LOL


      Nope I have a flip phone !!


      I have an I phone that I hate using for telephone calls.


      Staying on "topic" after rereading twice as suggested. Nothing is "waterproof" except a frogs ass. However that is my opinion only or for those that prefer text...IMO

    • August 8, 2018 12:04 PM EDT
    • Bill Barnwell said:

      guess most people are still using a rotary dial phone, LOL


      Nope I have a flip phone !!


    • August 8, 2018 11:43 AM EDT
    • guess most people are still using a rotary dial phone, LOL

    • August 8, 2018 8:33 AM EDT
    • Here is a link that shows you how to solder them.


    • August 8, 2018 8:05 AM EDT
    • Seems iffy to me, I guess I'm an old school guy who likes to be able to inspect solder connections before covering them up. With these I guess the only way to check for a good connection would be a pull test. Without a proper amount of flux you might just end up with wires that are touching but not properly soldered. Water resistant maybe, very few things are water proof !