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    • March 8, 2018 8:20 PM EST
    • We are rich Greg ! I still have barber trucks with "end caps" in stock

    • March 8, 2018 4:31 PM EST
    • Good thing I bought 2 for $10 each

      I've also tweaked them, a couple of the measurements on the go/no go gauge were off by a few thousandths.

       

      Greg

    • March 8, 2018 4:07 PM EST
    • Yeah, I looked all over the place for the Aristo gauge and couldn't find one.  One on Ebay just went for 42 bucks! 

    • March 8, 2018 3:51 PM EST
    • Fred Mills. said:

      For most purposes, the Aristocraft wheel and track gauge seems to work well, and is reasonably simple. 

      I totally agree, but they are going for more than $40 on eBay.  

       

    • March 8, 2018 3:48 PM EST
    • Based on the input here, and a couple of PMs, here's a new version.  It has steps for max and min gauge, and a slot for the USAT gear in the center.  This will also allow for centering the gear when pressing the axles back together.  I just need to measure the width and diameter of that gear before finalizing the design.  

    • March 8, 2018 3:33 PM EST
    • For most purposes, the Aristocraft wheel and track gauge seems to work well, and is reasonably simple. Too bad that no-one is manufacturing it at present.  Might be one old Aristo product, that Kader/Bachmann should consider producing.  I favour their +/- features, and the fact that they are made of metal so they don't wear out too fast.

        Fred Mills

    • March 8, 2018 2:47 PM EST
    • David

      Thank you very much.

      Tom

       

    • March 8, 2018 5:49 AM EST
    • Sure

       

    • March 7, 2018 9:56 PM EST
    • David Maynard said:

      I downloaded a drawing for a wheel gauge from the Saskatoon Model Engineers, and it has the back to back at 39.5mm But since I don't set my wheels tight to the back to back, I set my wheels so the flanges fit in the slots and rotate in the gauge freely, my wheels are probably just a smidge under 40mm back to back. It works for me.

      John Bouck said:
      All track is not a perfect 45mm spacing........

      Actually, none of my (commercially made) track is, its all a bit wider. I have found the same to be true in HO. The NMRA track gauge falls between the rails, because its over-gauge too. I wonder if manufacturers do this on purpose (for whatever reason) of if its just that manufacturing tolerances aren't tight enough to get the gauge spot on.

      David

      Is this drawing something you could post?

      Tom

       

    • March 7, 2018 5:01 PM EST
    • I downloaded a drawing for a wheel gauge from the Saskatoon Model Engineers, and it has the back to back at 39.5mm But since I don't set my wheels tight to the back to back, I set my wheels so the flanges fit in the slots and rotate in the gauge freely, my wheels are probably just a smidge under 40mm back to back. It works for me.

      John Bouck said:
      All track is not a perfect 45mm spacing........

      Actually, none of my (commercially made) track is, its all a bit wider. I have found the same to be true in HO. The NMRA track gauge falls between the rails, because its over-gauge too. I wonder if manufacturers do this on purpose (for whatever reason) of if its just that manufacturing tolerances aren't tight enough to get the gauge spot on.

    • March 7, 2018 3:12 PM EST
    • I'm finding that to be true, now that I'm gauging them properly.  The flange is a bit thicker than an Aristo wheel, but the profile is very different.  I may need to modify the gauge to the minimum specified thickness.  Snow day tomorrow, so I'll futz around with it.

    • March 7, 2018 2:46 PM EST
    • Eric, the 40mm is perfect, so I am curious what gauge do you get on the Kadee wheels after that (measure up to, but not on the fillet)...

       

      I have heard the Kadee wheels have really thick flanges, and it was hard to get correct gauge once the back to back of 40mm was set.

       

      Greg

    • March 7, 2018 10:29 AM EST
    • All track is not a perfect 45mm spacing. I have found this to be true on my layout and friends as well. (Even indoors).

      Aluminum is the worse culprit. Especially on the curves.

      The rail head can tip in or out a little.

      The problem is usually fixed after I run my Train Li dual bender to straighten it up.

      You need a little side to side play on the wheel sets. When I build my rolling stock, I always make sure I have a little slop.

      My 2 cents...............

    • March 6, 2018 10:33 PM EST
    • Eric

      That worked. Thank you.

      Tom

       

       

    • March 6, 2018 10:31 PM EST
    • I am not sure of the file type issue, but I AM sure of the file name. This site DOES NOT like spaces in the file name. Looking at the file name there are 2 spaces in the file name. I am also not sure about the extra characters after the file extension .STL. 

    • March 6, 2018 10:22 PM EST
    • Tom:

       

      I had the same problem. I fiddled about a bit and found that if you paste this url into a browser (well at least if you use Chrome), it will download the file:

       

      http://largescalecentral.com/public/ynforum_attach/37/41/02/23cf8_a655.stl?c=4ab3&fc=%27Wheel%20Gauge%20v1.stl%27

       

      Not sure why it isn't working correctly as is.

       

      EDITED: to say that you can just click on that link above and it should download. Magic!

    • March 6, 2018 10:18 PM EST
    • Eric Reuter said:

      Here is a 3D printed tool for gauging wheels.  It's exactly 40 mm wide.  

       

       

      STL file attached.

      Eric

      When I try to download the STL file, I get a page not found error. Is it me or is there something wrong?

      Tom

       

    • March 6, 2018 9:16 PM EST
    • Michael: I understood what you meant.  I'm just not sure how to accomplish it if the axle length isn't predictable, since the distance between the end of the axle and face of the wheel when it's in gauge would be manufacturer specific.