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    • April 3, 2019 10:55 PM EDT
    • I use Testors rust to paint the outside of the wheels. Do ya'll paint the locomotive wheels also?

    • April 3, 2019 10:45 PM EDT
    • Jon Radder said:

      To each his own!

       

      The black tones down the red a lot.  I have an old spike that I use a a color guide.  My ruddy brown / black mist is dang near dead on when done right and I do it right about 60% of the time.

       

       

      I agree, when done right it can look real good.

       

    • April 1, 2019 4:13 PM EDT
    • To each his own!

       

      The black tones down the red a lot.  I have an old spike that I use a a color guide.  My ruddy brown / black mist is dang near dead on when done right and I do it right about 60% of the time.

       

       

    • April 1, 2019 8:32 AM EDT
    • Jon

      I use the Earth Brown Camo paint as a base coat . See the source image Not as red .. they have some cool colors . ultra flat finish ..

      I also just used an elastic to mask the treads .. and Vaseline to cover the shaft ends. poked into some card board .. sprayed them flipped and done again ..

       

      A lot of cool info here :theweatheringshop - trucks

       

    • March 31, 2019 2:00 PM EDT
    • Nice Dan!!!!

    • March 31, 2019 12:18 PM EDT
    • I just mix up some acrylic paint (brown, black, grey) to an appropriate color, load up a brush and spin the wheels in situ as the brush puts the color on.

    • March 31, 2019 9:38 AM EDT
    • My masking jig.  3D printed using flexible filament.

      https://largescalecentral.com/FileSharing/user_2332/General/Wheel%20Mask.jpg 

    • March 31, 2019 8:16 AM EDT
    • Gee, I just mask the axle ends with some 1/4 wide masking tape, and then paint the wheels the same as you did. After an hour or so of running on the railroad, the wheel treads are clean.

    • March 30, 2019 9:49 PM EDT
    • Hey, now that is an idea!
      Think it is time to find the "save page as" key.

    • March 30, 2019 8:46 PM EDT
    • I originally posted this method on MyLargeScale possibly 15 years ago. That post and the photos are long gone :(  I needed to paint a bunch today - so I took pictures to put the method back out there again.  I am using Aristo chrome finish metal wheels, but this method would work for any brand / color.

       

      I start with a bunch of rubber O-Rings that are sized to match the tread diameter of my wheels. The O-Rings are about 1.375" outside diameter. They slip over the tread masking it and the flange from paint. Next I mask the axle ends with some wire insulation that has been plugged at one end with a short piece of solid wire - #14 I think...

       

      The trucks were painted previously using the same paint colors / technique.  I made up a jig to hold the wheels while I paint the axles and the back....

       

      I am using Krylon Ruddy Brown Primer as the base color, then misting with Krylon Flat Black before the ruddy brown dries. Here the Rudddy Brown has been sprayed on the backs and the axle. Paint on the wheel faces is just over spray...

       

      The wheels are taken out of the jig to paint the faces. In retrospect the jig was probably not needed at all...

       

      Next, the wheels are misted with the Flat Black to darken up the color getting closer to an old rust color...

       

      Back indoors an hour later the o-rings and insulation masking is removed. One pair has been installed in a truck. I lubricate the axle ends with Hob-E-lube oil...

       

      These wheels and trucks were prepared to finish the Delton Wood Hoppers I picked up last weekend in York...

       

      Before coming up with this method I used to paint everything then clean the axle ends and treads with lacquer thinner. This is much faster and lots less exposure to nasty fumes!

    • February 15, 2019 1:14 PM EST
    • Devon, once you set the speed close to what you want with the pulleys/belt, you should be able to adjust the speed with a variac.

    • February 15, 2019 11:55 AM EST
    • As a PS to Ross, mine is the square aluminum stock bed... in red as Devon pictured. edit; also German or Austrian make, a precision toy.

      I turned a 4" On3 hollow boiler, in wax for casting.

      It did what I wanted to do.

       

    • February 15, 2019 3:32 AM EST
    • I have a small  Austrian made variable speed  Unimat3..bought many years ago

      https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=unimat+3+lathe&tbm=isch&source=hp&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjezJWiqr3gAhV3QhUIHQOaD90QsAR6BAgDEAE&biw=1366&bih=625

       

      It was the cast iron base type...... (new are -  or seem to be - plastic,    which on the original was just the knobs)

      Turned up parts for live steam  3.5 inch and  some for a 5 inch loco...Could remove the motor and fit to a pillar turning it into a drill/milling head.also came with a fitting for a sturdy jig saw..

      Auto feed included.

      Still have it.  Probably cost an arm and a leg today but some  small  ( altho expensive ) all metal  precision lathes are still around. 

       I recently saw a 2nd hand Unimat 3 for sale  at a 1/3rd more than I paid for mine new! 

      I would suggest if you see an all metal  one for sale..snap it up!

       Probably be a good investment!!

       

      (Just  noticed Bruce's Proxxon drill stand...Yep..nice tools.  Their table saw is quite neat.

       

    • February 14, 2019 11:04 PM EST
    • Hi Devon and group,

      I have a Grizzly mini mill and mini lathe and generally happy with both. I bought them at a Grizzly store that was in Muncy, PA near Williamsport while on railfan trips with club members. Years back I had bigger machines but wasn't using them much so I sold them.

      If you are interested in these machines, LittleMachineShop.com has great support for this group of machines and some newer units that have come out. I have many upgrades on both machines which came from littleMachineShop. I do like the variable speed that both machines have. I have both machines on stands that came from Grizzly and I can move them around my shop as needed.

       

    • February 14, 2019 9:52 PM EST
    • I saw the blocks and figured that would be a good thing 

    • February 14, 2019 9:35 PM EST
    • Joe,

       

      they do now offer auto feed on newer machines. I agree that the hole thru the headstock is a limitation. when you need to hold larger items you use the outer ends of the jaws, typically by machining features in them to hold the part. that is why they are "soft jaws". if you need more space vertically the do offer riser blocks for both headstock and tailstock.

       

      Actually the biggest limitation I have had to work around is the limited cross slide travel.

       

      AL P.

    • February 14, 2019 4:40 PM EST
    • Devon,

      That is the machine I have.

      The cons I have found are:

      • No auto feed. This means you can't cut threads.
      • The bore through the head stock is only about 3/8th (too small).
      • The 3 jaw chuck (I also have a 4 jaw) is too small.
      • The swing over the bed is too small (see above).

    • February 14, 2019 4:05 PM EST
    • Craig Townsend said:

      I've always heard its not the machine that kills the bank, but all the tooling....

       

      I semi casually check estate sales for machine tools, but I doubt I will ever have the room for a mill or a lathe. 

       

      I thought I also have been told that if you can only buy one machine, buy a mill. A mill with the proper tools can do the work of a lathe, but you can't do it the other way around. 

       

      Just my 2 cents.

      You probably posted this prior to me posting the milling attachment for the Lathe. But with a 68 dollar add on you can do some basic milling.