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    • June 19, 2019 10:54 AM EDT
    • I use 91% all the time, never took anywhere close to a month.  Stripped this USA Trains SD40-2 in less than 24 hours using it.   I always use a stiff (not wire) brush to help it along.

       

       

          If you have cleared your model with Rustoleum clear, it will take a while longer though.    In the end, it is cheap enough to try it first.

       

       

    • June 19, 2019 10:03 AM EDT
    • .

      I have used  (in the UK)  Modelstrip  quite successfully... which MAY be available in the US..  Did quite a few N scale items and they turned out ok.  

      Modlestrip is designed for removing paint without damage to the model. To use 'Modelstrip', you simply plaster your model all over with the paste (few mm thick) in the areas that you wish to remove paint from. You then place the model in an air tight plastic bag and leave it over night in a warm airing cupboard..

      The following morning, remove from the bag and simply wash the model under the water tap. The paste will wash off and take the paint with it. In my experience of the product, a little light brushing is also required, but it is very successful and it is purposely made for the job: ie is does not attack plastics.

      It effectively dissolves paint and has no effect on the surface on which the paint has been placed. You can therefore managed to use it successfully to remove paint from metal/brass models as well as plastic surfaces.

    • June 17, 2019 1:54 PM EDT
    • Well I tried 90/10 alcohol, on these little hauler ore cars and first picture is of the car after 2 days/48 hrs. barely touched it, the second picture is after soaking for 1 hr  in purple power, had some one that I recommended it to said it didn't work after 2 days but mine did and the only thing I can say is mine is some old stock and perhaps it is now a different formula but then again he sprayed it and let it soak through some towels   alcohol

       

       

               purple power 1 hr

    • June 17, 2019 11:35 AM EDT
    • Joe Loll said:

      ... but a well known loco painter claimed that if using Alcohol, it could take a month to completely strip. 


       

       

      I'm not well known but my experience with half a dozen Hartland Locomotive Works ore tipper bins was that high percentage isopropyl alcohol took off the Rustoleum satin whatever its name boxcar red-ish hue it was,  or was it Krylon, here several years later I don't remember for sure, (what I am sure of is that the brand was not Pactra) took off the paint overnight. Put 2 bins at a time in a large plastic food storage container, poured in several bottles of alcohol, closed the container's lid, and went on about life until the next day.

    • June 17, 2019 11:28 AM EDT
    • A month? 91% stuff will strip it in 24-48 hours.

      The weaker stuff (70%) is worthless and would take a month to strip.

      I've never tried the other stuff.

    • June 17, 2019 10:17 AM EDT
    • I recently painted a loco shell with Rustoleum spray paint. The paint job came out just fine, but I decided I didn't like the finish and wanted a different color. So, I need to strip it. I assume most of you would recommend Alcohol for the task, but a well known loco painter claimed that if using Alcohol, it could take a month to completely strip. 

       

      But what about using Super Clean or Purple Power? 

      Have any of you had success with these products?

       

       

    • May 29, 2019 9:41 AM EDT
    • Well I don't hose down the area but I find in the winter when the air is extremely dry and you can see dust floating in the air I fill my airbrush with water and mist the area where I going to paint. The extremely dry air also promotes static electricity  especially on plastic models and wiping them down or brushing them off prior to painting only makes them attract dust. The above application of a mist of water to the air tends to lesson the static as well. I use most lacquer based paint of lacquer thinned enamels so they dry quickly and seem to be less bothered by some humidity in the air. On items large enough to use spray bombs on I usually do outside and on large items I'm less concerned about a little dust in the paint as compared to what mother nature will do to it in time anyway.

    • May 28, 2019 12:01 PM EDT
    • Try and hose down the area you are going to paint min ..that should help with dust ...

    • May 28, 2019 10:57 AM EDT
    • The unit I showed indeed has HEPA, I concur with all of Bob C's posts, although the filters (carbon and hepa) are available through Amazon at reasonable prices. The filter prices have come down from what they used to be.

       

      I would only use a HEPA unit to get that fine dust.

       

      I agree with you Joe, get a good paint job and then weather to suit. Our dust is not to scale, does not make suitable weathering

       

      Greg

       

      p.s. shut up rooster

    • May 28, 2019 8:55 AM EDT
    • I'm not striving for the perfect paint job, but bothers me when I look at my paint job and see little specs all over it. I take pride in my work, and I want it to look good. Who wouldn't?

       

      I've since made a spray booth from a cardboard box, as shown on Rustoluem's Youtube channel. I tested it out, and it seems to work fine. 

    • May 27, 2019 9:19 PM EDT
    • Joe Loll said:

      Hello all,

      I have a project I am working on, and I plan to spray paint the shell of a loco. But, I have a problem. I recently painted a scrap piece of plastic to test the paint color. When I did this, I noticed that there were many little dust particles stuck to the paint as it was drying.

      SO WHAT !

       

      It's a locomotive right ?

      So you are going to strive for the ultimate paint job then after it's done tell us is looks too shiny and it needs weathered? Are you planning on putting it up on jackstands with mirrors under it or are you gonna run it ?  I paint indoors in my parents house all the time but I also paint outside as well.

       

       

       

      St. Marks Hospital in London did some heavy research on anal retentiveness back in 1996 and this "vignette" of their (there,they're,they are) findings will drive the west coast guys nuts and the spelling police insane.

       

      Paint it and run it and POST PICTURES OF IT  ...that's my thoughts ....armchair modeling will someday become a hobby of mine but not yet.

    • May 27, 2019 8:55 PM EDT
    • I bought a small tent. It was about $25.

      It is a rectangle with one of the long sides that opens.

      I paint outside. It keeps out the wind and direct sun.

      A turntable/lazy susan helps a lot.

      Tom

       

    • May 27, 2019 8:16 PM EDT
    • well, you might do it the simple way...

       

      get a big cardboard box, put it upon the garbage  bin (the opening sideways). glue a sheet of plastic that can cover the opening to the top.

      inside lay a piece of cardboard for use of "turntable" (a real lazy susan or similar would be better)

       

      paint your model (carefull, in the closed space it needs less spray)

      lower the sheet of plastic

       

      after enough time take out your model

      throw away your painting chamber.

       

      works for me.

    • May 27, 2019 6:51 PM EDT
    • Joe - You can build a paint booth out of a large cardboard carton for an air conditioner or washer/dryer, A tiny bit of wood for reinforcement and a bathroom exhaust fan. Be sure to get a fan with the motor external to the air path to reduce risk of fire.  An LED strip light and a length of dryer hose and you are good to go!  You may still get some smell in the house.

    • May 27, 2019 5:10 PM EDT
    • Thanks for the suggestions, all. So it would seem that the best option would be to use a professional paint booth/room. The second best option would be to paint indoors with an air purifier. Regardless, painting outdoors is not the way to go. 

       

      I would like to paint indoors, but I don't have a paint booth, and my parents would come close to murder me if I painted inside. But I in theory I would like to make my own paint booth and do it inside. I guess I ought to find a professional paint booth. Unfortunately, the one paint booth I knew about is now gone.

    • May 27, 2019 3:10 PM EDT
    • Joe

      If this is going to be a show room paint job I would look around in your area for a auto body shop or a sign shop in Ma. if you do any spraying you have to have a clean spray room check around and you may find one you can use and don't forget tack off first otherwise you will have dust right from start.

      Cheers Richard

    • May 27, 2019 2:07 PM EDT
    • The art of a dust free paint job is a dust free environment to start with. Outdoors is NOT dust free. There is all sorts of dust and pollen that you can't see until it lands in your paint. Greg's suggestion is a good one, but start the unit BEFORE you start painting, like 12-24 hours and keep the door to the room closed. Also close off the A/C vents to the room, they will transfer dust from other areas of the house, the filter is not perfect unless you have a very expensive HEPA filter in you air handler. This will eliminate the majority of the dust in that room (call it a clean room) to start the paint job. A paint booth with exhaust fan, and filter to catch the over spray, to the outside will be another asset, controlling all the fume from the paint and keeping it from circulating into the house. The last ingredient to a good paint job is low humidity. High humidity slows the drying/flash time and will, depending on the paint, orange peel, and/or blush the finish. Multiple light coats are better than one or two heavier coats.

    • May 27, 2019 12:38 PM EDT
    • I'm a bit allergic to dust, so I got one of those filter units and leave it circulating in my office at work (many commercial buildings are older and have dust), very quiet and pulls a lot of dust from the air.

      Maybe one of those small filter units would help letting it dry inside.

      https://www.lowes.com/pd/Idylis-3-Speed-193-sq-ft-True-HEPA-Air-Purifier-ENERGY-STAR/4565043

       

      Greg

       

       

    • May 27, 2019 10:18 AM EDT
    • First thing I would try is setting freshly painted shell somewhere that one of those large clear plastic storage containers could be set inverted over it. Put container up on a slice of 1x2 at each corner and air will circulate to let solvent evaporate but dust won't have a direct path to settle.

    • May 27, 2019 9:50 AM EDT
    • Hello all,

      I have a project I am working on, and I plan to spray paint the shell of a loco. But, I have a problem. I recently painted a scrap piece of plastic to test the paint color. When I did this, I noticed that there were many little dust particles stuck to the paint as it was drying. If it weren't for the dust particles, the coat of paint would have looked pretty good. The question: Is there any way to paint it without getting dust or dirt on the drying paint? When I painted the piece, I did it outdoors, and them moved it indoors to dry. It is particularly dusty indoors, but if I leave it to dry outdoors, the wind will blow little dirt particles onto the paint. Any suggestions?