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    • June 22, 2020 11:03 PM EDT
    • I am building a layout and I require a six foot tunnel. I am looking for the 12” green pipe to bury. I have no idea what it is called or where to get it. Please help. All answers are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    • June 22, 2020 3:35 PM EDT
    • Click on settings (top header) then subscriptions for details.

    • June 22, 2020 2:09 PM EDT
    • John, yeah I think that will be my best option. I thought about an offsite storage but they can be alot more trouble than they're worth. 

    • June 22, 2020 11:08 AM EDT
    • You can buy more pic space with a Donation to the site ...

    • June 22, 2020 10:48 AM EDT
    • On the down side , I think I've reached my limit on the Album size as I had to delete a couple old pics to load a new one. Now I'm weighing my options so I will be able to continue adding pics. 

    • June 22, 2020 10:08 AM EDT
    • Yeah I have also noticed a tendency to bind even in the corners which are R1. I was hoping it was just this one engine but reading around it looks like the Annie is really an R2 or wider loco. Its not the usual culprit, the lead truck, this is a later Plus drive Annie which has a lot of the improvements. I may just cut thru the whole problem and sell off the couple Annies I have. It's not like I have a motive power shortage. I'm also considering selling off or cutting down the few full sized cars I have as I really don't like the way they look on the layout. I have lots of short cars that look and work better, so I may shed the excess fat.

      One the plus side my 2-4-2 Columbia which I got for dirt cheap because the previous owner had broken off the rear trailing wheel works fine over the R1 switches, I was worried about it stalling on the frogs with only three wheel pickup, I might try to add pickups to the tender on this. It's the last version of this engine so hopefully no gear worries, in fact after the successful testing I broke out the Banta recab kit and installed it, it really does make a difference for the better. Somewhere in the garage I also have an Indy that will also get recabbed. 

    • June 22, 2020 5:33 AM EDT
    • I glued a couple of washers to the top of the front truck to make it heavier. It helped. 

    • June 22, 2020 3:12 AM EDT
    • Vic,

      My B'mann 4-6-0 had the same issue.  Our track floats, which can be some of it.  What is interesting to note, we had fewer issues after the lead axle broke and I replace it with a bit of hard plastic tubing.   I think it was actually a joiner for rubber drip irrigation lining!  Whatever it was, it seems to lend some credence to your idea of being "out of gauge."

       

      Eric

    • June 22, 2020 1:12 AM EDT
    • Even my 'Barry's Big Trains' rebuilt 4-6-0 has issues with switches - R2 switches at that.  Had to go through and adjust several as a direct result.

       

      The 4-6-0 also tended to bind on the R1 curves, which was one reason I went to R2.  Thought seriously about R3, but the space was small and the cost high.   

       

      also noticed an issue with a couple of bobber cabooses not liking certain switches, which I attribute to coupler issues.  It's not consistent enough to cause concern, though the bobber cabooses seem to multiply when I'm not looking...

        

    • June 22, 2020 12:30 AM EDT
    • Now that I am up and running again, I am beginning to test items on the layout, and the results are not promising for the big stuff. In particular with one of my Big Haulers, the ten wheeler apparently dislikes every LGB turnout I have, it constantly detail on the divergent curve. The lead wheel climbs the frog. I think the wheels might be out of gauge. Also Bachmann bobber caboose the fixed knuckle coupler tends to push over the car coupler in front of it enough to derail it.I will be testing more stuff mostly to make sure the couplers I've chosen will work properly. I have a feeling that the more I test, the more changes I will have to make. 

    • June 17, 2020 7:51 PM EDT
    • like the double headed Macs 

    • June 18, 2020 10:12 PM EDT
    • Jon Radder said:

      Yes. some kind of mechanical lever would be good. The bridge itself creates the barrier on one side, but perhaps if visitors will be opening the bridge, some means of determining proper track alignment has been established on closing is also needed. Mechanical is still the best as it can not fail due to dead batteries.

       

      How about something the person opening the bridge must engage that will not disengage until the bridge is seated properly?

       

      Calling Rube Goldberg, Rube, are you with us?

       

      Thanks for the pic. I would still like to see a close-up of the hinges in the up position when you can. No rush, I'm just curious as to your implementation.

       

      Jon,

      Heaps of pictures on my blog about the railway construction.  No 6 in Stage 2 construction log shows the proof of concept model I made after re designing the hinge mechanisms a few times.

      https://ringbalin-light-railway.blogspot.com/p/build-stage-1.html

       

      The alignment on the non hinged side is being performed by using some "Hillman's" lift out bridge clamps I had from a previous layout which had a lift out bridge.

      The whole thing only weighs about 2.5-3 Kg and cannot go over 90 degrees so it has to be held open and hence closed.  I have a stepson who does not realise that doors can be closed as well as opened.

    • June 18, 2020 9:13 PM EDT
    • so you want something mecanical?

       

      well, this idea would be as mecanical as it can get.

      a moveable buffer, operated by the weight of the closed bridge and a (lighter) counterweight.

       

    • June 18, 2020 8:59 PM EDT
    • A rube here, 

      If you split it in the middle, you automatically get 2 blocking sections.

      Amazon.com: GUAngqi Stainless Steel Sliding Bolt Lock Thick Small ...

      Above; high tech alignment device and lock....

    • June 18, 2020 6:07 PM EDT
    • Yes. some kind of mechanical lever would be good. The bridge itself creates the barrier on one side, but perhaps if visitors will be opening the bridge, some means of determining proper track alignment has been established on closing is also needed. Mechanical is still the best as it can not fail due to dead batteries.

       

      How about something the person opening the bridge must engage that will not disengage until the bridge is seated properly?

       

      Calling Rube Goldberg, Rube, are you with us?

       

      Thanks for the pic. I would still like to see a close-up of the hinges in the up position when you can. No rush, I'm just curious as to your implementation.

    • June 18, 2020 5:45 PM EDT
    • Picture of the bridge open.

      It does not open past 90 degrees, I made it like that so that it cannot be left open by mistake and someone must hold it open.

      The landscaped sitting area is in the background when it is finished there will paths running around all the bench work and gardens between them and the firepit.

    • June 18, 2020 5:11 PM EDT
    • Jon Radder said:

      Looking good. Please post a few detail shots in the up position too!

       

      Re safety device: The best is an electrical block on both side of the bridge that is automatically disconnected when the bridge is lifted. This can be accomplished with one or two momentary contact push button switches on the landing pad. Only need to break contact on one rail per track.

       

      Personally, I am battery power, so I need a mechanical stop.  I use a blue Aristo track screwdriver in a hole drilled into a tie and the bench. I learned the hard way that this device was required

      I use battery as well so a mechanical stop is needed.

      As the bridge leads to a sitting area with a firepit visitors will be using the bridge as well so something that is semi automatic will be needed.

      I have considered a battery powered solenoid dropping a barrier but that would get a bit messy, so a lever system will be the best option I think.

       

      Will take some pictures of it open when it gets a bit lighter.

    • June 18, 2020 10:53 AM EDT
    • Looking good. Please post a few detail shots in the up position too!

       

      Re safety device: The best is an electrical block on both side of the bridge that is automatically disconnected when the bridge is lifted. This can be accomplished with one or two momentary contact push button switches on the landing pad. Only need to break contact on one rail per track.

       

      Personally, I am battery power, so I need a mechanical stop.  I use a blue Aristo track screwdriver in a hole drilled into a tie and the bench. I learned the hard way that this device was required

    • June 18, 2020 4:59 AM EDT
    • The lift up bridge is finished!!!
      From a concept put forth by Korm Kormsen who sometimes frequents this forum of putting the hinge under the track, as opposed to the convention of having the hinge joint above the track, to the finished thing has been a Ben Hur type production.
      Trains can now cross the entrance to the firepit area with no problems.
      Bridge non hinge end is located by using "Hillmans" lift out bridge clamps.
      All that need to be done is to design and manufacture a safety device that stops trains from running off the edge when the bridge is open, I use battery power so breaking the track circuit does not apply, some form of physical barrier will be required possibly even a catch point.

      More thought on the safety device is required, any suggestions folks???

       

    • June 18, 2020 8:36 PM EDT
    • I have updated my blog about the construction of the railway so that it now reflects where it is at.

      https://ringbalin-light-railway.blogspot.com/search/label/Latest%20Posts

      It shows the lift up ridge and the continuation across the yard.