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    • June 23, 2020 11:42 PM EDT
    • I'll second the smooth wall and I'll add an access hatch in the middle.

      I dislike reaching into a hole, I share my land with a rattlesnake. The hatch was used more often than not.

    • June 23, 2020 7:59 PM EDT
    • Tim, I would suggest using a smooth wall pipe in lieu of what Jon used for the length you are referring to. Corrugated will tend to catch on locos and rollings stock if you need to pull a derailment out of the tunnel. I would also suggest something on the order or 14 or 14 inch, depending on the equipment you are planning on. You will loose some of the inside height  with the gravel/sub road bed to put the track on.

       

      Sources could be local building supply (Home Depot, Lowes, Manards), as suggested a landscape supply, or a piping supply house such as Ferguson. Another source, depending on infrastructure improvement in your local area would be drops from the installation of water/sewer lines. Sometimes the contractors will let you have a drop piece from construction.

       

      Welcome aboard.

    • June 23, 2020 7:26 PM EDT
    • Timothy Boswell said:

      I am building a layout and I require a six foot tunnel. I am looking for the 12” green pipe to bury. I have no idea what it is called or where to get it. Please help. All answers are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

      Welcome Timothy

    • June 23, 2020 6:29 PM EDT
    • Ted Brito said:

      There is a black plastic corrugated pipe available in different diameters that you can get from plumbing supply houses. My brother uses a lot of the 18” for putting risers on septic tanks. Really rugged stuff that won’t rot or collapse under weight.

      Exactly what I used. Supports me standing on top with only a few inches of earth cover. Set it a few inches below grade and used a used a piece of pressure treated 1x4 as roadbed inside.

    • June 23, 2020 5:24 PM EDT
    • I have a couple tunnels lined with the 12" corrugated pvc pipe that have been in for 16 years with no problems.  I would suggest drilling some drain holes in the bottom and setting it on some fine gravel.  I got my pipe from a landscaping/garden supply.  I used a piece of composite decking for the roadbed.  Attach the track to it and slide it into place. Rail clamps on the ends just in case it needs to be removed.  Stay away from curved tunnels.

    • June 23, 2020 3:36 PM EDT
    • Hi Tim;

       

      Just a caution, and you may already be aware of it.  A friend of mine was running some tunnels through an embankment on his property when he encountered some large tree roots.  He decided to cut through the roots to build his tunnels.  Ten years later the trees started dying.  He had dealt them a slow death, but was not aware of that at the time.

       

      This may not apply to you, but thought I should mention it.  My friend really hated to lose those trees.

       

      Best wishes, David Meashey

    • June 23, 2020 12:31 PM EDT
    • Try this.  https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/culvert-hdpe-12-in-x-20-ft-hdpe-1220-1330854?cm_mmc=feed-_-GoogleShopping-_-Product-_-1330854&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrLz02K2Y6gIVS-G1Ch1lZQdVEAQYAyABEgI8IfD_BwE

    • June 23, 2020 12:25 PM EDT
    • There is a black plastic corrugated pipe available in different diameters that you can get from plumbing supply houses. My brother uses a lot of the 18” for putting risers on septic tanks. Really rugged stuff that won’t rot or collapse under weight.

    • June 23, 2020 10:01 AM EDT
    • Check the local DPW yard ..they might have some small pieces they would/could give you ..

    • June 23, 2020 9:26 AM EDT
    • GAP said:
      Timothy Boswell said:

      I am building a layout and I require a six foot tunnel. I am looking for the 12” green pipe to bury. I have no idea what it is called or where to get it. Please help. All answers are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

      Can't help with the pipe but with a 6 foot long tunnel have you considered how you would get to a train if it derailed in the middle?

       Possibly consider access ports in case that happens, but that could be hard if it buried.

       

      When I had my 1.6 railroad I picked up a piece of 12" green pipe for a tank car I wanted to build at a site when a company was laying a new sewer pipe for the city, it was in there scrape pile and workers there said I could have it. A 6ft. piece of that pipe is really heavy and it took all I had to load it in my pickup. New it comes in 10-12 foot lengths I would think and I would assume the price is pretty high, I think I would op for something else, but not knowing the price it might fit your needs. There is company close to where I live and I see it stacked on there lot, I will see if I can find the website, they may also know of a supplies close to you.

      trainman

    • June 23, 2020 7:03 AM EDT
    • I used a corrugated aluminum culvert pipe for my tunnel as it has edges that 'lock' in the dirt around it.  Found a 12 inch diameter piece.  18 years and no settling issues.

       

    • June 23, 2020 1:32 AM EDT
    • Timothy Boswell said:

      I am building a layout and I require a six foot tunnel. I am looking for the 12” green pipe to bury. I have no idea what it is called or where to get it. Please help. All answers are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

      Can't help with the pipe but with a 6 foot long tunnel have you considered how you would get to a train if it derailed in the middle?

       Possibly consider access ports in case that happens, but that could be hard if it buried.

       

    • June 22, 2020 11:03 PM EDT
    • I am building a layout and I require a six foot tunnel. I am looking for the 12” green pipe to bury. I have no idea what it is called or where to get it. Please help. All answers are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

    • June 23, 2020 7:15 PM EDT
    • Ted Brito said:

      Just read through this and have used something similar with retractable tail wheel steering on my 1/8-1/9 RC warbirds. To solve some of the issues you experienced I would use a 2/56 control rod threaded just on the end for the clevis Instead of the fully threaded rod. I would then use two adjustable wheel collars (again from RC planes) on each end In place of the nuts for the spring buffers. The collars will allow for easy adjustment and the smooth round rod will slip easily through the hole in the plate. Experimenting with spring size and collar location would allow for fine tuning of the mechanism. Some light grease will keep the rod from rusting or a 2/56 brass thimble could be silver soldered to a piece of SS round wire. 

      Reminds me of building Utility

    • June 23, 2020 6:42 PM EDT
    • Thanks Ted.  I was planning on using rod that was just threaded on the ends, but what I had on hand was too long, so I just went with the threaded rod cut to exact length and covered it with heat shrink tubing.  I like the idea of the round adjustment collars. I will look into that.

       

      So far this switch has been out in the weather since mid March and it is still working.

    • June 23, 2020 3:41 PM EDT
    • Just read through this and have used something similar with retractable tail wheel steering on my 1/8-1/9 RC warbirds. To solve some of the issues you experienced I would use a 2/56 control rod threaded just on the end for the clevis Instead of the fully threaded rod. I would then use two adjustable wheel collars (again from RC planes) on each end In place of the nuts for the spring buffers. The collars will allow for easy adjustment and the smooth round rod will slip easily through the hole in the plate. Experimenting with spring size and collar location would allow for fine tuning of the mechanism. Some light grease will keep the rod from rusting or a 2/56 brass thimble could be silver soldered to a piece of SS round wire. 

    • June 22, 2020 3:35 PM EDT
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    • June 22, 2020 2:09 PM EDT
    • John, yeah I think that will be my best option. I thought about an offsite storage but they can be alot more trouble than they're worth.