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    • July 1, 2020 6:05 PM EDT
    • Vic, if it's a scan kit, I had 3 of them in a round house setting and never had a problem with the roofs if worried I would just glue something heavy on the inside, also they, the buildings, warp very easy in hot weather so brace them, Bill

    • July 1, 2020 5:28 PM EDT
    • Vic congratulations! I've been watching and admiring your pizza builds for many years, and am so glad for you and your new bigger-than-pizza (lasagna?) layout!!

       

      Really looking forward to seeing your usual cleverness infuse this layout too. 

       

       

       

       

    • July 1, 2020 2:58 PM EDT
    • Vic Smith said:

      Anyone got any suggestions. I got this kit off Ebay and after finishing the major assembly I'm conflicted what to do about the roof. Currently its just sitting on it, no adhesive , I'm pretty sure its meant to be removable for access inside but as such its extremely flimsy. I am very certain with the high winds we can get would send the roof flying. The simplest solution would be to glue it down, but I am considering attempting to add hinges and a latch mechanism, but thats not going to be a simple operation. any suggestions?

      To keep it removable AND make it less flimsy, just glue some 1/4" acrylic sheets underneath.     I would not bother with a hinge and latch as I think the weight of the acrylic will be enough to keep it in place.   I had removable roofs on a couple of my buildings and nothing ever blew away...

    • July 1, 2020 2:43 PM EDT
    • I've braced a lot of my roofs with PVC. Just use the end walls to get the correct angle and glue 3 or 4 of them on the inside. 

    • July 1, 2020 2:16 PM EDT
    • Anyone got any suggestions. I got this kit off Ebay and after finishing the major assembly I'm conflicted what to do about the roof. Currently its just sitting on it, no adhesive , I'm pretty sure its meant to be removable for access inside but as such its extremely flimsy. I am very certain with the high winds we can get would send the roof flying. The simplest solution would be to glue it down, but I am considering attempting to add hinges and a latch mechanism, but thats not going to be a simple operation. any suggestions?

    • June 24, 2020 12:21 PM EDT
    • Just a quick snapshot showing how the blocks and siding power is organized. The little shed thingies hold a knife switch, but where does it go? Each block and siding that has a power switch also gets a number marker made to look like a milestone indicator, that number is then stenciled on top of the power stands, so when you want to isolate a section, its alot easier to associate which stand controls which section. It's pretty simple but what the hey, if it works, right?

       

    • June 29, 2020 11:45 AM EDT
    • http://www.trainingdutchman.com/

       

      Select:

      English

      trains

      tips/diagrams

       

    • June 29, 2020 9:31 AM EDT
    • Dan, where is that “Dutchman” info? I want to gather as much information as I can for my future plan’s.

    • June 26, 2020 7:10 AM EDT
    • LGB used diodes and AC power for the EPL switch drives.  Polarity needs to be reversed.  All LGB 5075 units had AC input of approx. 18 volts and there were diodes inside to pick throw direction on one wire.  Go to training dutchman to see diagrams of units he constructed.  Remember the 5075 used momentary switches as you can not have power always on the EPL units, the motors will burn out.

       

    • June 25, 2020 9:11 AM EDT
    • I have 2 lgb 3 way switches. I am wiring thru the MTH AIU with diodes.  I have tried multiple waring configurations none work properly. Any one know how to wire them properly . 

       

       

       

       

    • June 25, 2020 5:41 AM EDT
    • I'd have to agree with Jon. I just rebuilt my layout and raised it off the ground, mainly to get away from all the maintenance involved, frost heave being the main culprit. 

      I also used RRTrack to help with designing the track work. Although I used all flex track on the layout, RRTack will give you a good idea of what fits in a given space. And what looked good on paper didn't necessarily fit reality, but it was easy enough to fix once the building began.

    • June 24, 2020 10:16 PM EDT
    • Trainman, When we built our house 20 years ago I have my excavator build that area, rather than slope it like it is on the other side of the house, specifically for a train yard. I didn’t expect it to be over 20 years before I start on it but other aspects of life got in the way. It’s always been my intentio to run out of my basement and onto that plateau of land.

    • June 24, 2020 12:55 PM EDT
    • Thanks for all the info and insight Jon. My wife is ten years younger and loves gardening so that’s a plus. I restore antique cars and know all to well how things take longer than you expect or anticipate. I just got a simple 34’ Chevy stovebolt 6 cylinder engine back from the machine shop for a rebuild that I dropped off a year ago last November! 

    • June 24, 2020 12:53 PM EDT
    • Looks to me the hardest work is done, the pic with the hose running thru it would be my choice. Large enough area to do just about anything you want, some people have all the luck when it comes for a place for their railway.

       

      trainman

    • June 24, 2020 12:51 PM EDT
    • Sean McGillicuddy said:

      Ok Ted

      Ground or raised ?

      How is your body treating you now..How about 5 yrs from now..

      Go with the largest curve that will fit.

      Set some track and some cars out to see how it looks and think of how you will maintain green stuff etc..

      Good luck and see if you can master this.

       

       Thanks for the quick response and great questions Sean. I’m going to be 59 later this year and I’m still in good shape. Back is very good, shoulders are fair, mind is gone!

    • June 24, 2020 10:27 AM EDT
    • I'm no expert, but I have a lot of practical experience with grades. Because of my topography, the best I can do on my layout is a long curving grade that exceeds 4% in places.  Locomotives with traction tires would routinely climb this grade pulling a reasonable train (6-10 cars) with no issues. That was back when I was running 1:29 stuff. Now, on the same hill, I am running 1:20.3 locos and they can usually handle about 5 cars up-grade. The real problem is surging on the down-grade.  Only my C-19 has a tight enough gearbox to run smooth either up or down.

       

      IF I had a choice, I would have kept grades to under 3% and preferably around 2%.

       

      FYI - You probably already know this, but grade percentage calculation is RISE / RUN.  In other words: a 10" rise over a run distance of 100" is 0.1 or 1%.

       

      Computer Program:  I use RR-Track.  It has a fairly short learning curve and a good selection of sectional track from several manufacturers. It does support flex track, but I find that feature difficult to use. A lot of folks use CADRail, but I have no experience with it.  Track planning software should not be relied on as being 100% accurate. You can use it to get a good idea of what will fit, but when you get track down, it always is a little different than the plan.

       

      And to back up what Sean said:  Consider your age and health. Building on the ground can be fun, but body parts get tired and it can become difficult to maintain. I am maybe two or three years tops away from not being able to work on the ground level portions of my railroad.  If you can stay elevated, either on bench work, or raised beds, your body will thank you for it sooner than you want to admit.

       

      There is nothing wrong with big plans. Just take a look at what Cliff is building!  Just know that it won't happen nearly as fast as you think it will

    • June 24, 2020 9:54 AM EDT
    • Ok Ted

      Ground or raised ?

      How is your body treating you now..How about 5 yrs from now..

      Go with the largest curve that will fit.

      Set some track and some cars out to see how it looks and think of how you will maintain green stuff etc..

      Good luck and see if you can master this.

       

       

    • June 24, 2020 8:10 AM EDT
    • I have some ideas for planning out my layout but it’s my first time and I’m sure I can learn tons from those of you who’ve been there already. My outdoor area will be fed by a double track trestle coming out of my walkout basement, using the outside track, making a 90 degree gentle curve as it rounds the rock retaining wall to my raised area. This area Is around 45x50, give or take. The trains will return to the basement on the inside track of the trestle. There’re will be  top pond fed by a waterfall, running down a stream feeding a second pond. I want to have a mountain with a logging operation serviced by a separate line that will run from the mountain down to a service siding, and both ends reverse loops. A log train and mow train carrying loggers will alternate automatically on this line, stopping on the loops and the service area. I plan on using the RR Concepts electronics for my automation. There will be two end to ends on the layout. A short ore train running up on a high elevation and a trolley line running through the entire width of the layout ending at a station and disappearing into a tunnel. The main line will automatically split off, depending on magnet placement from the passenger route and the freight route. I have mentioned my thoughts before and supplied some pictures but I want to start on the planning stages now so will include the pictures again. i am interested in any ideas for laying out my railroad like computer programs also. I’m not following any specific prototype so I’m open to anything that will work to incorporate as many of my thoughts as possible. I know many think my plans are a huge undertaking and they are but I do stuff on this level a lot so I understand the work and effort that has to go into it. Because I’m new to it, im trying to get as much information as possible beforehand so there’s less mistakes made. I know there are some rules as far as grades go but I encourage even those basic rules to be posted here so this thread could be a great reference page down the road. My initial thoughts of laying out my railroad are the following:

      1. Measure out, stake, and square the area into a grid so the area can be transferred  to graph paper.

      2. using a laser level, shoot all elevations and try to create a 3D type topography of my area

      3. looking for good books on the subject of planning and laying out my layout. Which books or web articles?

    • June 24, 2020 7:33 AM EDT
    • Jon Radder said:

      Thanks Ted.  I was planning on using rod that was just threaded on the ends, but what I had on hand was too long, so I just went with the threaded rod cut to exact length and covered it with heat shrink tubing.  I like the idea of the round adjustment collars. I will look into that.

       

      So far this switch has been out in the weather since mid March and it is still working.

      Good to hear the mechanism is holding up to the elements Jon. My own outdoor layout is stIll in my head and not even drawn out on paper so I’m not sure if I’ll have a need for a spring switch or two yet but your thread is filed in my head for future reference if I do. My plan is for a mostly automatic layout with at least three different trains feeding the outdoor loop from inside the house. I currently have two switches where the trains push the points over when they come out of the yard but they don’t have to spring back because of the sequence the trains operate at and I rarely reverse through them. But if I do, they are both electric motored as they are way at the back edge of my layout.

    • June 24, 2020 7:19 AM EDT
    • That 20’ long black corrugated pipe offered at tractor supply is corrugated on the outside but smooth on the inside for better water flow. Read the description and you’ll see that It says that. Its perfect for tunnels and it’s what I’ll be using.