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    • September 16, 2019 8:52 PM EDT
    • Thanks to all!  Looks like we shall consign segments to storage tracks on our various shelves, investigate a possible abandoned siding (the Triple O is pretty small.  This would be a squeeze!), and donate the rest to the "craft project" box, then.  



    • September 15, 2019 8:53 AM EDT
    • I have repurposed the ties to make very good track for a track leading out of my train shed to the main railroad using aluminum rail in 6 foot sections.

    • September 15, 2019 6:11 AM EDT
    • I use 2 sections of that Bachmann track on my workbench. It easy to pull them out of the drawer they are kept in along with my KaDee coupler height gauge, set them up with the gauge, and then check/adjust the couplers on what I am working on. The rest of my Bachmann track is in a box in storage somewhere, probably to never be used again.

    • September 15, 2019 4:55 AM EDT
    • We've used sections as an abandoned rail line in our layout.


      Sophie B

      Dismal Creek Railroad

    • September 15, 2019 1:13 AM EDT
    • Thanks, Greg!

    • September 14, 2019 9:33 PM EDT
    • They normally collapse when you try to bend them, but as far as I have observed, the joiners are likewise steel that will rust, definitely not stainless.


      Your concern about galvanic action is well versed in reality, so besides rusting the galvanic action will further speed their demise, even in a less humid environment.


      I only use this rail as storage tracks within my house.



    • September 14, 2019 4:47 PM EDT
    • Aloha,


      Every time I throw something out, LSC member and "pen pal" Bill Barnwell shows how to make a masterpiece out of it by combining the junk with a stapler and some nail heads , so I thought I would ask before consigning my Bachmann trap to  trash bin!  All but the turn-outs are that thin metal stamped into a rail shape.  They have served their purpose circling the previous owner's Christmas tree and providing us "indoor track" from time to time.  Their ends are misshapen, the rails rusty, and they are now more frustrating than functional.  I was able to retire 24 feet of 12" track sections of brass track on the Triple O with a recent purchase of 4' LGB track, but CINCHOUSE authorized the expenditure on the condition I retire the B'mann track that was giving Kid-zilla, and thus her, fits.


      With the straight and curve tracks, I am just sort of fishing for ideas here.  Can they be bent to look like re-railers on bridges?  Or will these rails just crimp?  Can the metal rails or plastic ties be repurposed?  Right now, I plan to use some on a train storage self and hand the rest over to the crew for rail-themed art projects.


      The turn-outs, which look much more robust and appear to be solid stainless or other silvery metal, look like they could be useful following some Dremel work and railclamps.  I am worried, though that would simply set in motion galvanic corrosion when I clamp them to the brass LGB rail that predominates on the Triple O.  Any thoughts or personal experiences on this?


      Off to the Ewa Railroad to celebrate Wailua Agriculture Co. #6's 100th Birthday!


      Have a great weekend!




    • September 15, 2019 8:10 PM EDT
    • Pete Lassen said:

      Ted, can I be your adopted kid

      Sorry,  I have first dibs Pete since Andy/dad recently renewed the restraining order against me  .

    • September 15, 2019 4:34 PM EDT
    • Pete Lassen said:

      Ted, can I be your adopted kid, so I can hang out with you and have you fix all my track and cars and anything else you find?  The information you have shared here and on Gregs site is priceless, thanks for sharing it !

      Wow Pete!

      Thank you much for such appreciated comments.

      That last illustration was done awhile ago for a yet to be "vignette" about my outdoor layout that will be hosted on Greg's website sometime in the future. 

      Unlike running a real time thread on layout construction that several folks had done in the past, I am too slow for that.



    • September 15, 2019 4:21 PM EDT
    • Ted, can I be your adopted kid, so I can hang out with you and have you fix all my track and cars and anything else you find?  The information you have shared here and on Gregs site is priceless, thanks for sharing it !

    • September 14, 2019 8:10 PM EDT
    • Nice work Ted !

    • September 14, 2019 5:32 PM EDT
    • Illustrated below is how a small vise and Allen wrench was used on my outdoor layout to align the railheads whilst clamping the Split Jaws.



    • September 14, 2019 6:48 AM EDT
    • Yes Greg, I am replacing my Hillman's with Split Jaws as the Hillman's break. I was just saying that the design without the split (2 solid sides) can be used on wider curves without issue.


      I was fortunate, I bought over 200 split jaw stainless clamps, in batches, on online auctions. I guess some people bought them and then for whatever reason never used them, and I benefited from them selling off their unused clamps.


      For those that still need them, I do hope someone does buy the company and continues production of them.

    • September 13, 2019 8:24 PM EDT
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      Greg (ball end driver yes)



      Greg said : ball end driver and has been reported to the moderator!

    • September 13, 2019 8:10 PM EDT
    • The split jaws, with the 2 smaller blocks that can rotate the wrong way when installing are an order of magnitude harder, try one some time.


      This is why we are really going on and on about it.


      Greg (ball end driver yes)

    • September 13, 2019 6:56 PM EDT
    • I have a small number (about 20) of the SVRR clamps and have never had an issue putting them on as others described above.  I do use their Ball end driver for clamps and find it far easier to use than a traditional hex/Allen wrench. 


      For what it's worth my railroad is indoors and sits about 42 inches off the floor.  No one has ever complimented me on my coordination or manual dexterity.

    • September 13, 2019 6:49 PM EDT
    • The other key to the technique is hook the side with the 2 blocks on first, then swing it under the rail and hold in place with your finger, and spin the 2 screws in just enough to engage the base. Fast and easy.


      Most people try to hold it up from the bottom and one side or the other comes out. Also this technique avoids the 2 blocks swiveling...



    • September 13, 2019 6:07 PM EDT
    • By putting a finger under the clamp then tightening them until they hold, move your finger and let the track sit flat , then tighten one until the screw strips out, then back of the rest of the them! Actually I have a big hand and a small Allen wrench so I have not stripped and screws . 

    • September 13, 2019 5:14 PM EDT
    • Yeah, the split jaw can make you crazy until you learn the technique to keep the separate jaws from rotating. I can put them on with one hand. (I do need the wrench in the other ha ha). The Hillmans had a fatal flaw with the square slot, some people had no issues, but many had them crack/break.



    • September 13, 2019 4:55 PM EDT
    • the uncle hermies ones on ebay were an economical alternative and I have many of them on my RR. unfortunately they are no longer offering in code 250 (code 332 last I checked is still being sold) and I had to resort to using split jaw. while I understand the base principal of the design, I was always frustrated when installing them, as one of the jaws inevitably would rotate out of position, and never seamed to want to rotate back. Greg I do not think they ever offered anything but brass.


      AL P.