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    • November 17, 2018 1:14 PM EST
    • Use the long wall and make a removable section with a larger radius that can be put in place when operating.  That will allow you to remove it and close the door when the RR is idle.


    • November 17, 2018 1:05 PM EST
    • Humm that is a possibility. I hadn't thought of a swing out staging yard. Humm..

    • November 17, 2018 12:58 PM EST
    • I hear you Craig, as a navy brat, the concept of a car inside was never realized ... and as my own mechanic, I'm envious of a paved driveway!

      50 footers aren't so bad, I was envisioning auto racks as tip toeing elephants.

      Since She only has nightly reservations, you might consider putting your staging yard on wheels, or hinged to the wall for stability. Swing it out for operations and tucked away when necessary.

    • November 17, 2018 12:48 PM EST
    • John,

      Yes I run more modern stuff. The longest car I should run is a 50' box. If I use a magic formula proposed by MRH mag, my min radius should be at least 4', but 5' is better.


      The space in the middle (and note) is to remind myself that my wife would like to park her car in the garage every night... And I want a covered area in case i have to play car mechanic. Its not a lot of fun playing car mechanic outside in the rain... ;) 


      So in other words I can't hog the whole garage with trains...

    • November 17, 2018 12:44 PM EST
    • I'd keep it on the longer wall, it's out of your way there. A 4' R is tight, you're a modern big freight operator aren't you? I'd try for a 5'R there.

      My 4'R curves hurt my eyes and I only had 1:24 shorties on it!

      Remember to add finger space between cars, side to side.


      I'm confused; Is that 'space for 1 car' a unique measurement?

    • November 17, 2018 12:27 PM EST
    • My plan is to use old (free) kitchen cabinets as the base for the staging wall, and typically they are about 24" deep. I don't even know if that's enough room for more than 2 tracks? At 24" wide, that means its a 2' radius curve exiting the garage... That's too tight in my book. So, do I pull the cabinets out 2' from the wall so I have 4' of width? But then that eats up 40' of garage storage that is a waste of space...


      See the problem? Also, the long wall has multiple outlets (and panel) that would make it easier for work bench type stuff vs running new power from the electrical panel up and over to the far wall...

    • November 17, 2018 12:18 PM EST
    • Personally, I would keep it on the longer wall, although if your curve is to tight then all bets are off..............

    • November 17, 2018 11:40 AM EST
    • So, I'm in the process of designing my new layout and workshop space in the new house, and I've got a design problem, I need help with. 

      I have 2 sides of the garage to work with for both a staging yard to exit outdoors thru a hole in the wall and a workshop space. The two walls are 90 degrees to each other. The longer wall is about 20' (depth of a standard garage, minus a exterior door), and the shorts wall is about 12-15' long. My initial gut reaction was to have the staging along the long wall, thus maximizing the length of available space, but that would require a 90 degree turn from staging to the layout area. That means the shelf that holds the staging yard would have to stick out at least 4' (so I can have a 4' radius curve outdoors).


      The shorter wall would provide a straight shot from staging to the layout, but that would require reversing (flipping how it opens into the garage) the exterior door (which is fine), but is a much shorter staging yard (12' vs 20').


      So which wall should the staging yard be on? The shorter wall, or the longer wall?





    • November 16, 2018 10:29 PM EST
    • Some more pictures of the switchback:

      These shots are at the top of the hill...

      The below shot is of the Yard area at the top.


      The below shot is from the top, overlooking the top yard area at the bottom of the picture..   Yhe view goes down to

      Lumber sawmill yard which is located just to the left of the bridges on the right hand side of the picture..

      You might notice the ""Chief Inspector"" walking up the hill to check that things are good...



      The below picture shows how it was constructed...  With the tractor I hauled the aglime (crusher fines) up and dumped it where

      the tracks were to be located..  The piles were leveled for the track, then we added the track and a digital reader level to determine the grade.

      Once the grade was determine, we then covered the sides with landscape underlament and covered that with inch and 1/2 rock.

      Eventually, along side of the track more plants will be added to hide most of the rock..

      And if you notice, that Chief Inspector is keeping a watchful eye on progress..



    • November 16, 2018 3:09 PM EST
    • After the October 2018 Ops, the weather turned nice enough for us to be able to finish the Switchback..



      All the switchback legs are completed, and at the top is a 3 track yard..   Some landscaping has been added, and more will come

      probably in the spring..

    • November 16, 2018 6:31 PM EST
    • No outdoor work today. Smoke makes ours the worst air in the WORLD!

      I guess I won't be smoking the turkey either... :(

    • November 16, 2018 10:23 AM EST
    • Well, we will see.  Shelves go up today to form West Loop.  Air quality from the fires (160 miles away) is very bad, so I am limiting my outdoor time.

    • November 15, 2018 12:23 PM EST
    • Ill bet you railway came out better than our switch!

    • November 14, 2018 10:27 PM EST
    • We used a laser level just like that to level the ground for a full scale switch on the Wiscasset, Waterville  and Farmington Railway today.

    • November 14, 2018 10:12 PM EST
    • Laser Level!!

      Laser Level

    • November 14, 2018 10:10 PM EST
    • Layout and grade set for initial set of tracks.  Fence will support shelves.


      Grade Line set

    • November 9, 2018 10:12 AM EST

      John Caughey said:

      I put mine in the center...

      As set above it's a slide by spring, moving it to the upper used hole (rust stain) and it becomes a flop over switch

      I use spring steel because unlike Safety Pins, mine rust darker...

      As for a signal, that's risky as I've found there's not much strength for more than flipping the points.

      The balance between pony trucks and the spring is my concern to prevent derailments.

      I'd go with electronic sensors, were I capable... other wise I can see enough to tell.


    • November 9, 2018 9:52 AM EST
    • Fred Mills. said:

      In Large Scale, just use a much larger safety pin...they come in a multitude of sizes.  By putting the spring in the centre, between the rails, you don't require the long ties shown in that good picture above.

         Fred Mills

      Thanks Fred!

      I still hope to add a target to indicate the turnout direction from a distance. Not sure how to do that yet. 



    • November 9, 2018 6:42 AM EST
    • In Large Scale, just use a much larger safety pin...they come in a multitude of sizes.  By putting the spring in the centre, between the rails, you don't require the long ties shown in that good picture above.

         Fred Mills