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    • May 31, 2020 11:34 AM EDT
    • Hi Pete,

       

      Yes, you can cut and solder them about every 2 or 3 inches. You feed 12v (max) to them, regardless of cut length. There's a number of colors, and some are remotely controllable. Just look for "LED tape."

       

      https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF64JG

       

       

       

       

    • May 31, 2020 11:06 AM EDT
    • The strip lights are just the long tape you cut to length and solder your wires from the connector to?

    • May 29, 2020 3:11 PM EDT
    • Having been blessed with a gorgeously-detailed passenger car built by Bruce Chandler, I'm wanting to see the interior when both on the shelf and the track. The first step was to install LED tape along the ceiling, and connect it to a 9v rechargeable battery pack. That was yesterday; and the battery is for track running.

       

       

      Since I wanted to install this in as non-invasive a way as possible, I just dropped the 9v battery pack in one of the vestibules (the 12v version didn't fit, and I didn't want to harm the walls). 

       

      For shelf lighting,  I didn't want to mess with switches. So today I received a small 12v infrared sensor, and hooked it up to a 12v wall wart and matching connector to the LED tape. Here's the setup, pretty simple.

       

       

      To switch back to battery, you just unplug the sensor cable and plug in the battery cable. The sensor is hidden beneath a shelf, and the wires just go behind everything. 

       

       

       

      I got the sensor here. It's 12-24vdc in, and when triggered, sends the same voltage out. The on-time is adjustable from 1 to 10 minutes. 

       

      This is right outside my basement office. So now whenever I walk to the fridge or the bathroom, I get to see Albert and his travel mates!

       

      Thanks again Bruce!

      Cliff

       

    • May 31, 2020 11:24 AM EDT
    • Fred Mills. said:

      Isn't it rather interesting how "Body Mounted Trucks" are such a successful far/trend; while body mounted couplers always start a debate of some sort...

        I'm very much for body mounting trucks, on railroad cars.  I just don't know how we mounted them in the past.  My feeble mind went blank, when thinking about it...

      I tried coupler mounted trucks but then you must use truck mounted couplers and I don't like the look of them 

       

    • May 31, 2020 10:55 AM EDT
    • Far from a trend, if you want the train to move, body mounted trucks seem to be  more of a necessity. Unless you use a string or the 5 finger power plant you are going to need some kind of power ( electric, live steam diesel, gas , nuclear, solar, proton drive) to make the trains move

    • May 31, 2020 9:13 AM EDT
    • Isn't it rather interesting how "Body Mounted Trucks" are such a successful far/trend; while body mounted couplers always start a debate of some sort...

        I'm very much for body mounting trucks, on railroad cars.  I just don't know how we mounted them in the past.  My feeble mind went blank, when thinking about it...

            Fred Mills

    • May 30, 2020 7:53 AM EDT
    • Mark Hadler said:

      Thanks Pete, but I like the look of body mounted trucks so I'm forced to mutilate.   Also, I kind of enjoy it (the mutilation part).

      Mark, I must agree and I think we all do. But I've yet to mutilate for that look.

    • May 27, 2020 8:54 AM EDT
    • Using the word "Mutilate" is NOT a fair way of describing, PROPERLY body mounting Kadee couplers on rolling stock.  Properly mounting them on the body, can enhance the prototypical  appearance of the rolling stock.

           Only collectors should have any problem with body mounting couplers. In their minds, and the Collector Market; anything but "Original, or Pristine" appearance is acceptable.   Running and enjoying the equipment, indoors or out doesn't add to their value, in that part of the hobby. More thought is towards its market value when they die.  Will anyone care, after they pass away...I leave that to the individual....

        Fred Mills

          

       

    • May 26, 2020 10:08 PM EDT
    • I'm tired of being a patient! 

    • May 26, 2020 10:03 PM EDT
    • John:  

       

      At least for me it hasn't happened yet as I have not received the car and coupler.  Patience, patience Grasshopper!

       

      Remember those vultures - 

      Nsaney's Psychobabble: Vultures: Patience my ass - I'm gonna kill ...

       

       

    • May 26, 2020 9:59 PM EDT
    • What ever happened to; Pics or it didn't happen?

    • May 26, 2020 9:54 PM EDT
    • Pete:

       

      You're on and no charge!  Just realize that I have good days and bad days, too bad I can't predict when I'll have one of the other.

       

      p.s. shipping is extra.  

    • May 26, 2020 9:43 PM EDT
    • Ok, in that case I will send you all my cars that need to be converted,

    • May 26, 2020 8:57 PM EDT
    • Thanks Pete, but I like the look of body mounted trucks so I'm forced to mutilate.   Also, I kind of enjoy it (the mutilation part).

    • May 26, 2020 7:23 PM EDT
    • I just did my convention hopper car with truck mount s and they fit and work great ! I like the ease of use on these. No need to cut shim or mutilate the original work of the csr

    • May 26, 2020 5:43 PM EDT
    • I bought a pair of the warbird PIKO hoppers as shown on page 95 of the 2020 PIKO catalog and added Kadee body mounted Gauge 1 couplers to them.

       

      As Fred suggested the anvil end of the Kadee gauge was used to get the height needed to mount the couplers. Luckily the height was exactly that of the bottom of the frame and the detail in the center of each end of the cars.

       

      The trucks were removed and dissembled. All but 1/4 inch of the draw bars used for the redundant hook and loop couplers were removed. The trucks were reassembled and set aside to make mounting the coupler boxes to the frame easier.

       

      These particular cars had a drop in the bottom of the frame near the bolster. But the frame and the bottom of the detail in the center of the cars were a 1 inch flat space on which the coupler could be fastened.

       

      The protruding screw pocket at the back of the coupler gear boxes were sanded flush with the back of the gear box. This would minimized the amount the couplers would protrude from the cars.

       

      I assembled all the couplers and glued the top of them to the frame. Using the hole in the center of the gear boxes as a guide I drilled a 3/32nd hole in the frame. Then fastened the coupler by threaded a half inch 4-40 bolt through the frame.

       

      With the couplers in place I fastened the trucks back on the car with the 1/4 inch the drawbar nubs facing the center of the car. They couplers worked very well on the 8 foot diameter curves and PIKO switches on my switching puzzle layout.

       

    • May 29, 2020 3:11 PM EDT
    • Sorrier, another dupe post.

       

    • May 29, 2020 3:11 PM EDT
    • Sorry, dupe post.

    • May 26, 2020 3:13 PM EDT
    • I remember seeing it. I took it off and put it in a safe place.

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