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    • November 24, 2017 11:01 PM EST
    • Pete Lassen said:

      still no picture showing on any post.

      You have to be logged in at that other train forum for it to show, so I put a copy in my freight shed and reposted it for ALL to see.

    • November 24, 2017 10:50 PM EST
    • Pete Thornton said:

      Interesting subject to model:

       

       

       

      (Tuscarora RailRoad coach being delivered to EBT for storage.)

    • November 24, 2017 10:30 PM EST
    • still no picture showing on any post.

    • November 22, 2017 2:29 PM EST
    • Pete Thornton said:

      Interesting subject to model:

       

       (Tuscarora RailRoad coach being delivered to EBT for storage.)

       

      Beautiful. 

    • November 22, 2017 7:39 AM EST
    • Check out page 87 in the latest NG&SLG. A similar model in 1:20.3 one an award at the Denver Narrow Guage Convention. 

       

      Doc Watson

    • November 21, 2017 7:54 PM EST
    • Pete Thornton said:

      Interesting subject to model:

       

       

      (Tuscarora RailRoad coach being delivered to EBT for storage.)

      Where is the model?

       

      Editing for spelin

    • November 21, 2017 6:36 PM EST
    • Sean McGillicuddy said:

      Pic not visible...

      Is to me, a naked passenger car on a flatcar ... no sheathing. See?

    • November 21, 2017 3:14 PM EST
    • I saw that on FB. 

    • November 21, 2017 12:01 PM EST
    • Pic not visible...

    • November 21, 2017 11:59 AM EST
    • Interesting subject to model:

       

       

      (Tuscarora RailRoad coach being delivered to EBT for storage.)

    • November 20, 2017 9:14 PM EST
    • Mike, I know this is an old thread, but it's new to me. Nice work. Thanks for sharing your ditch light ideas.

       

      Shane

       

    • November 20, 2017 7:36 AM EST
    • Double post, double thanks.

    • November 20, 2017 7:36 AM EST
    • Daktah Jon,

      .

      Nice documentation and build log.  Great ideas, here!  Thanks for sharing.

    • November 19, 2017 9:30 AM EST
    • I shall blame Amazon Prime for the delay in my progress.  The new pin vise I ordered with guaranteed Saturday delivery is lost somewhere in NJ.  Amazon says don't worry, it will probably show up within a week.

       

      I did drill the beams for the bearing blocks - When Al says "carefully drill" he means it. There is about 1/32" of wiggle room on either side of the hole. I thinned down the blocks as best as I could. They are so small it's tough to hold them square against a Dremel grinding wheel. I think they will be OK. Waiting until the frame is glued to the deck before mounting the blocks. Rivets next; oh joy.

    • November 18, 2017 1:00 AM EST
    • Ahh, that's an idea worth remembering.

    • November 17, 2017 11:07 PM EST
    • yes grind down the faces shown to remove the bevel,  you get a cheaper flush cut plier.

      A word of caution; these are now lighter duty. I cut snippets of solder and light wires.

      I like them when cutting parts off sprues, they minimize the filing clean up.

       

    • November 17, 2017 9:32 PM EST
    • Thanks for the tips guys.

       

      @John - Not sure I can quite picture how you are suggesting to grind the cutters. I have a wheel and a Harbor freight near by.

        Am I grinding down the outside of both jaws?

    • November 17, 2017 8:24 PM EST
    • Go to the hardware store and buy a mid price pair of small side cutters. Use a grinder to flatten the side of the cutters until you have flush cutters. Use these to cleanly cut off your rivets under your finger. No tape needed, drop into your rivet cup.

      Get some bees wax, it's sticky. Put a little on your "pick'em up stick" to manage them into place. (I get sticky wax from jewelry supply houses).

    • November 17, 2017 7:30 PM EST
    • Jon,

       

      One way to keep the rivets from flying so much is to stick the rivet about to be cut from the sprue to masking tape. then if you are carful you can guide it into the hole and glue. I didn't have much luck with tweezers either. micro mark has some that are spoon shaped buit I have yet to fork over the $$$.

       

      Al P.

    • November 19, 2017 3:04 PM EST
    • Before I can install the various brass hardware pieces, some shown below, some holes must be drilled (either for rods to go through or for rivets).

       

       

      So, some jigs were built to make it easier to drill 1/16" holes in small pieces:

       

       

      The first hinge, minus rivets so far, is on:

       

       

      And it even hinges!

       

       

      All this brass will need to be painted of course, similar to the brass sheeting inside (which was painted and glued in place). That brass sheeting actually ended up fitting better than I expected.

       

       

      Next up (besides the door on the other side): rivets, closing mechanism, paint, weathering. I'm also planning to put some angle bracket (styrene) around the inside top of the car (to protect the wooden edges as the ore is dumped in). I'm also planning a rod across the middle top with bolt details (that's why the middle-top hinge brackets are shorter). Eventually I'll get to add trucks and couplers and this puppy will be done.

       

      Lots of fiddly little stuff to do on this car. And I get to do this 3 more times! Oh well, "you knew the job was dangerous when you took it, Fred".....