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    • August 13, 2018 2:19 PM EDT
    • Thanks Pete. 

       

      The issue that I am having is that I don't have ready access to this car so I am unable to perform the measurement.  I'm hoping that someone will respond that can either perform that measurement or knows the actual scale of thePiko Combine.

    • August 13, 2018 1:09 PM EDT
    • Measure the height of the door at the end.  A narrow gauge caboose has a door only 6' tall or less.

    • August 13, 2018 9:41 AM EDT
    • Thanks for the response David.

       

      The source of my confusion is based upon other queries and the answers received such as the Piko Scale ? and G Gauge or G Scale? threads on the mylargescale.com site from a few years ago.  A Piko item's scale appears to be partially dependant on its "history" of whose mold they are using.

       

      I'm hoping the Combine is considered a "wood-sided passenger car" and thus 1:22.5 scale.

    • August 13, 2018 5:54 AM EDT
    • Most of the Piko line is 1:32. So I would guess so is the car in question.

    • August 13, 2018 1:25 AM EDT
    • I've been unsuccessful in finding the approximate scale of the Piko  (14-1/2") Wood Combine.  

       

      I'm planning on using it as a basis for a rail car diner.  I like it because it's short, but I want to be certain that the door and roof heights don't look too out of place with the number of other Piko buildings that it will be near.

       

      Thanks for any help that you can provide.

    • August 13, 2018 11:57 AM EDT
    • Where are you going to mount the link button or just going to push the door open and reach in? the other question is are you going to fuse this?

      Thanks Richard 

    • August 13, 2018 7:42 AM EDT
    • Bob,

      Great project.  I've been wanting a #5 for several years now.  Wish I could find one.  I'll be watching this conversion with much enthusiasm.

       

      Doc

    • August 12, 2018 6:37 PM EDT
    • Here's where it stands now. Back off, hooked up to make sure things sill work as I go.

       

       

      Existing wiring sorted out.  The two taped wires are the track leads. The fat two in the middle are the leads to the motor.  The other three are the wires to the front lights.

       

       

      Revo RX in place.  The Phoenix will, hopefully, fit on the other side of the door.

       

       

      And a look at most of the parts.  2600MAH battery pack, charging jack, on/off switch, plugs and wires.

       

       

       

    • August 12, 2018 6:32 PM EDT
    • There's a stove in a goose?   I always thought it was the other way around?

      Sounds like a fun project.  Any pictures?

    • August 12, 2018 6:29 PM EDT
    • A request for lots of pictures as you go. Following.

    • August 12, 2018 6:19 PM EDT
    • Making this thread to document my Goose #5.  I've been wanting one for ages, and finally I got one from Don Howard last month.  This weekend I started the battery/RC/sound conversion.  I have opened the back box, removed the stove, and the circuit for the track wiring.  That gives me a good amount of space inside, in a place thats not obvious given the side windows.  I have installed the Revolution receiver, and I know where the battery is going to live.  I am waiting for a Phoenix to show up this week, and then I will figure out where everything else will live, build the charging circuit, fiddle with the lights, and button it up.

    • August 8, 2018 2:15 PM EDT
    • Korm, well the reply post I made was posted at 6:25am. I am on vacation this week. So I musta woke up, posted, went for coffee, and then took nap. So my excuse is that I posted that post with my eyes only half open, and my brain stuck in first gear.

    • August 8, 2018 9:18 AM EDT
    • take it easy, David. things like that will happen with ever higher frequency to you...

    • August 8, 2018 6:25 AM EDT
    • Oops, my bad.

    • August 7, 2018 8:28 PM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      tac, those are truck mounted. And yes, if I had it to do over, I would probably have gone with body mounted couplers.

      Fred is Fred and Tac is Tac ..no relation that I'm aware of ¿

    • August 6, 2018 6:25 AM EDT
    • Fred Mills. said:

      Guys, guys, guys...

       This debate has gone on countless times before, here in North America, and all over the rest of the World.

          To try to change the culture of what has been chiseled in stone, for those in Great Britain (They seem quite content and understand it) is pure waste of time, better spent debating or being critical of those "Crude" looking offset shank, body mounted couplers in David's pictures above....!!!

        Even the rather "Crude, toy-like" cars would actually look passable if the Kadees were properly body mounted, without those ridiculous offset shanks...

               This last sentence should start a REAL debate, that just might motivate some towards improvement, or start a hate campaign against this old fart called …

        Fr.Fred………!!!!   Do it with a smile....!!

      tac, those are truck mounted. And yes, if I had it to do over, I would probably have gone with body mounted couplers.

    • August 6, 2018 1:49 AM EDT
    • Steve;

          "Heretic"....now there is a word (I think I corrected the spelling) not often used in the fine world of Model Railroading.

        It brings out the question, along with many others; "What scale of heretic are we talking about", and how is the scale decided on ?

           another might be;  "What width of roadbed does a heretic require, for good performance  ?)

               Bob Cope can easily open up with many others from an engineering standpoint, if he cares to jump in with bladders drained...we don't need a damp work site...!!

        No mater what scale, involving a heretic in anything, may be considered "Heresy",  so what do we do with that ?

           I don't think that so far I have involved anyone in politics, or religion; so everyone can jump into this latest twist to the original subject line, without involving the moderator's heavy finger of fate....!!

       Jump in the water is fine, unless someone is expecting ice with their drink....

        Fr.Fred 

       

       

    • August 5, 2018 10:22 PM EDT
    • Pete Lassen said:

      I have looked thru a lot of pictures and videos and cannot tell much of a difference in trains with hook and loop couplers and those with body mounts , so it all comes down the what the person wants, same with cars , I dont mind a 1:29 car next to a 1:24 car hook and loop or Aristo knuckles

      Heritic.  

    • August 5, 2018 10:07 PM EDT
    • I have looked thru a lot of pictures and videos and cannot tell much of a difference in trains with hook and loop couplers and those with body mounts , so it all comes down the what the person wants, same with cars , I dont mind a 1:29 car next to a 1:24 car hook and loop or Aristo knuckles

    • August 5, 2018 12:47 PM EDT
    • Guys, guys, guys...

       This debate has gone on countless times before, here in North America, and all over the rest of the World.

          To try to change the culture of what has been chiseled in stone, for those in Great Britain (They seem quite content and understand it) is pure waste of time, better spent debating or being critical of those "Crude" looking offset shank, body mounted couplers in David's pictures above....!!!

        Even the rather "Crude, toy-like" cars would actually look passable if the Kadees were properly body mounted, without those ridiculous offset shanks...

               This last sentence should start a REAL debate, that just might motivate some towards improvement, or start a hate campaign against this old fart called …

        Fr.Fred………!!!!   Do it with a smile....!!