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    • November 27, 2019 6:03 PM EST
    • Hey Mark!!  Thanks for the links...I completely forgot about the first one using the cotton ball technique.  I actually used it a few years ago to remove some lettering off a Bachmann 3-truck shay.  Thanks for the reminder...

      Richard

    • November 27, 2019 9:25 AM EST
    • Thanks Max and Stan for the advice...I need to get serious about working on this project.  The last time I worked on my Forney was back in January...and now here we are almost at the end of the year.

      As far as any previous thread about this...it could have been me asking the same question...but when I'm only on this site every six to eight months who knows.  I can't remember last week.  So my apologies for bringing up a subject again.

       

      Hope everyone has a wonderful Thanksgiving!!

      Richard

    • November 25, 2019 1:06 PM EST
    • Thanks!

    • November 25, 2019 5:20 AM EST
    • Greg Elmassian said:

      Wasn't there an extensive thread on all the chemicals/techniques somewhere?

       

      Greg

      Yes

    • November 25, 2019 3:27 AM EST
    • As you are going to be applying a waterslide type decal, with I assume a full backing carrier film (other products that I have used of Stan's are made that way), then using a very fine 1200 grade wet/dry paper to remove the tampo printed decoration will be probably be the easiest method. You can get finer grade cloths to do this as well. You will have to apply a gloss base coat for the decal to be applied over, to help hide the carrier film, anyway and that will level/hide the finely abraded area where you have removed the decoration. Once you have applied the decals and let them dry you should be applying a finishing/sealing coat of whatever finish you want to give a consistent appearance, be it matt/satin/gloss. Saves messing around with a load of dubious chemicals and possibly causing irreparable damage ( if you don't count the lacquers ). Always check that whatever gloss and finishing coats you are using are compatible with any factory applied finishes on the loco body that there will be residues of and the decals.

       

      P.S. You could get away without a gloss base coat for the decal by applying a proprietary plastic polish to the area from where you have removed the decoration. Some car paint restorers can be used for this purpose too. They, as well as plastic polishes, could even be used to remove the decoration as they are very fine abrasives in themselves. You then end up with a fully prepped surface for the decal, after washing away any residues. Then all you have to do is apply a final finish, over the decal, that matches the rest of the loco in the areas were the decals are applied.

    • November 24, 2019 8:58 PM EST
    • Wasn't there an extensive thread on all the chemicals/techniques somewhere?

       

      Greg

    • November 24, 2019 8:21 AM EST
    • Richard...  That's a tough one..

       

      For LGB stuff, you might try 91% Isopropyl alcohol and/or denatured alcohol on a qtip or a cloth "swab".   I've even "gently" mixed lacquer thinner with the denatured but that can be dangerous.   Use it gently..  

      Make some tests...  

       

      Also, I did a google search for "How to Remove lettering from Model Trains" and came up with a number of "hits".   Here's a couple if links.    Removing lettering from HO Model     Removing Lettering from a Bachmann Coach

       

      And I got this tip from one of my customers who does some very fine O scale modelling.  He uses this from   Joes Model Trains. Decal & Detail Remover  Erie, Pa. 814-806-4141

    • November 24, 2019 7:40 PM EST
    •    You've created a 3-D portrait from a picture. Really nice job.

       

    • November 24, 2019 10:47 AM EST
    • Sure is, Cliff. 

    • November 24, 2019 9:08 AM EST
    • What a beautiful photo of a beautiful model!

    • November 24, 2019 8:45 AM EST
    • Your welcome, Matt. 

      What you posted was the page the image was on. Just copy the image address and place that in the photo square. 

      Joe Zullo has a tutorial on it at the bottom of the Forum. 

    • November 24, 2019 7:10 AM EST
    • Thanks for fixing my pic, Ken! I have been offline for so long I forgot how.

      Cheers,

      Matt

    • November 24, 2019 1:32 PM EST
    • Thanks Dennis! I'll check with my dealer tomorrow.

    • November 24, 2019 12:35 PM EST
    • Cliff

      I do 6 pieces 24" x 60" that can be shipped via UPS if your supplier does not stock your needed size.

      Dennis

    • November 24, 2019 7:36 AM EST
    • That's great, Dennis, and I'll check out the blog.

      I've got a local plastics supplier who carries the PB, so I'll get a quote from them.

      Thanks again,

      Cliff

    • November 24, 2019 9:59 AM EST
    • Hey Ken,

      .

      Excellent work and documentation on the rebuild.  I think the abandoned structure looks great, also.  Thansk for sharing.

       

    • November 24, 2019 8:41 AM EST
    • Dan Hilyer said:

       Nice job on Mancos, Ken. If it were me, I would rebuild that run down structure on the backside of the coaling tower that is shown in the last few photos  Just sayin’ 

      Yea, Dan, that's way, way down on the list......................

    • November 24, 2019 7:54 AM EST
    •  Nice job on Mancos, Ken. If it were me, I would rebuild that run down structure on the backside of the coaling tower that is shown in the last few photos  Just sayin’ 

    • November 24, 2019 6:26 AM EST
    • David Maynard said:

      Now the abandon one just needs some pigeons roosting in it.

       

      I know. "Shut up Dave."

      I don't know if you remember Mac McCalla or not, but he used to do weathering seminars for Badger Air Brushes. His big thing was pigeon poop all over everything. He's take a perfectly good, brand new engine and when he was done it looked ready for the scrap heap..............