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    • March 16, 2019 8:46 PM EDT
    • Thinking PVC as a base however that is only my opinion ...

    • March 16, 2019 9:11 AM EDT
    • OK.   So, with the acrylic base, it WILL be watertight!      I think your only concern will be the glue that you use.   It should be UV resistant and last a long time.   I have used the black E-6000 for many years with no problems.   Using corrugated aluminum, there shouldn't be anything to chip...although if you want a rust effect you can either use sheet steel or paint the aluminum.   I used Sophisticated Finishes Iron with a rust overcoat on plastic and it has held up very well.

      Here's what it looked like before the paint:

      After it is painted, you really can't tell that it's plastic.   Should work just fine on aluminum as well, although I think there might be some other treatment available?

    • March 16, 2019 8:39 AM EDT
    • Thanks all for the suggestions.

       

      We are thinking about a corrugated metal roofing but this will likely be small pieces overlapped so not water tight.  The intent is to glue these to a base which will not chip.  This engine house is part of our modules but for the most part will be used to keep a locomotive dry out on the layout.  Since it will be moved around a lot chipping of the rook edges is one of our major concerns.

       

      We will have it with us in York on our module,  Hope to put the base on shortly after York so discussing it there would be most helpful.

       

      Thanks

       

      Stan

    • March 15, 2019 7:12 PM EDT
    • Are you sheeting over the roof base and if so with what material ? Also what desired "effect" are you looking for on the roof? Standing seam would be a snap with PVC board as Jon suggested. I personally am a huge fan of the PVC board myself. We can talk at York if you are coming ....will be there Friday and Saturday.

    • March 15, 2019 7:07 PM EDT
    • Jon Radder said: Rooster had issues with acrylic warping when used for buildings due to heat build up inside the structure.  I've not seen similar issues in sign service.

       

       

      Actually what I found out wasn't caused by heat and you won't find that issue in the sign business Jon.....acrylic doesn't like to lie flat outside period . There is also UV and non UV treated so if you are going outside I would go with UV treated. I will never forget the acrylic floor for Radders Cigar store......damn thing bowed up like a rainbow......SO I heated it up and slapped a cinder block on top making it flat.....turned off the shop lights and returned the next morning only to find the cinder block teetering on top of a rainbow acrylic sheet.

    • March 15, 2019 5:53 PM EDT
    • Well, since the structure is redwood, I would continue with that...

      BUT, that's not really the question.   I'm not sure what you mean by the comment "aluminum pieces glued to it to have the desired effect."   So, with THAT in mind, when I extended my freight house, I ended up using acrylic for the base of the roof, BUT, ended up using cedar shingles for MY desired effect.

      I tried "scale" shingles, but they last about 60 seconds outside, so went with thicker ones.   I do believe I got them from Ozark, but not sure if they are still available...

    • March 15, 2019 5:46 PM EDT
    • I use both of those materials in the sign business.  For my uses there are pros and cons to both.  Polycarbonate is much more resilient; resists cracking and breakage. Whites will yellow fairly quickly with sun exposure. Acrylic is more fragile, will shatter if struck. Whites /colors stay strong a very long time.  1/16" material of either type will need lots of support.

       

      Rooster had issues with acrylic warping when used for buildings due to heat build up inside the structure.  I've not seen similar issues in sign service.

       

      If you can go thicker I'd probably used foamed PVC board. The 3mm sheet is close to .125" but is very floppy. 6mm (approx .25") is quite a bit more rigid.  Depending on how big your roof will be I might be able to snag you a piece from an old sign and bring it to York if you are going. That goes for acrylic too, but I don't have much thinner that 3/16"

    • March 15, 2019 5:10 PM EDT
    • Just in the early stages in building outdoor structures.

       

      Been working on a single stall engine house built in redwood and now need to find a material for the roof.  I was thinking of either using a Polycarbonate or Acrylic sheet as the base and then using aluminum pieces glued to it to have the desired effect.

      Was thinking about 1/16 inch thick material.

       

      What suggestions do folks have on suitable rooking material that will stand up and not easily chip?

       

      Stan

       

       

    • March 16, 2019 6:21 AM EDT
    • Blue bearing caps

      Ask Trains from the September 2014 issue
      TRNAT0914_01
      Two blue end caps for bearings made by Amsted Rail’s Brenco Inc. appear on a freight car truck at the Union Pacific's Butler Yard in Wisconsin.
      Steve Sweeney
      Q What is the significance of the blue paint that I see on the rotating bearing caps on freight car wheelsets? – Tito Porfiri, Olney, Md.

      A The blue bearing caps you saw were most likely manufactured by Amsted Rail’s Brenco Inc. A marketing representative for Amsted says the company “...wanted to distinguish the new Brenco Generation 2000 Class K bearing as it was originally placed in field service testing in the mid 1990s. Blue was chosen since it has always been an integral part of the Brenco logo color. The color became so recognized during captiveservice field testing ... that we decided to go across the board with blue on all Class K and M bearing production.” – Matt Walker, CSX Transportation locomotive engineer

    • March 16, 2019 3:12 AM EDT
    • Eric, I'm hoping with some use, the treads will polish up nicely like the real ones. My focus era is roughly 1990-2010, though build dates can go much earlier. Reflective stripes - yes. Graffiti - no. CN "www" logo - no.

       

      I think the blue caps are just a companies marketing move to make them stand out.

       

      Watch out for Rooster. I think he still makes you write lines on the blackboard.

    • March 15, 2019 8:38 PM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      Blue, red, what is the difference?

      Rooster assigns homework for Maynard .....on his desk Monday morning for grading  .....you have all weekend !

    • March 15, 2019 2:54 PM EDT
    • David Maynard said:

      Blue, red, what is the difference?

      No clue Dave. Just see blue used now. Not sure if Red was used more in the 70's era or not. 

    • March 15, 2019 2:04 PM EDT
    • Blue, red, what is the difference?

    • March 15, 2019 11:32 AM EDT
    • Truck is looking great there Shane. Was wondering if the Kadee wheel treads were silver under the black finish, now I know 

      Like your idea of the appearance of a bad wheel/axle being swapped out. I tend to model more modern era so the only difference would be painted the bearing cap blue.

    • March 15, 2019 3:43 PM EDT
    • Beauteous!

    • March 15, 2019 1:57 PM EDT
    • Now there you go!

    • March 15, 2019 12:23 PM EDT
    • Great looking building, Dennis. You’re paint job on the brick is amazing. How is the surface texture on the brick created?  It looks very authentic. 

    • March 15, 2019 7:47 AM EDT
    • 2nd Structure

      Full painted

      [url=https://flic.kr/p/2fbasFx][img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7855/47372698021_3cb8084d71_z.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2fbasFx]Untitled[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/56388842@N06/]Dennis Rayon[/url], on Flickr

       

      I use the basic acrylic HOBBY paint for all the coloring of the brick. The green is again spray can paint, also brushed after spraying.

       

      [url=https://flic.kr/p/2fbasFc][img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7857/47372698001_823c71b94e_z.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2fbasFc]Untitled[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/56388842@N06/]Dennis Rayon[/url], on Flickr

       

      [url=https://flic.kr/p/2fbasGK][img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7803/47372698091_c5bcdc7ebd_z.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2fbasGK]Untitled[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/56388842@N06/]Dennis Rayon[/url], on Flickr

    • March 15, 2019 7:41 AM EDT
    • 2nd Structure

      Thanks Jim,     This is a very user friendly product that is capable to stay outside. 

      Front side all painted with spray can, and brushed.

      [url=https://flic.kr/p/2f5Le7W][img]https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7849/47311582342_5ba9cfbdb4_z.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/2f5Le7W]Untitled[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/56388842@N06/]Dennis Rayon[/url], on Flickr

    • March 15, 2019 12:01 AM EDT
    • Dennis: Thanks for showing your approach to painting these buildings. Any detail you can provide will be helpful to me, and maybe others. Looking good so far. I like the 3D brick trim around the doors and windows. Nice!